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香气物质的渗透系数和蒸气压测定。

Permeability coefficients and vapour pressure determination for fragrance materials.

机构信息

Unit Operations Lab, Polytechnic School, Pontifical Catholic University of Rio Grande do Sul, Porto Alegre, Brazil.

CBQF - Centro de Biotecnologia e Química Fina - Laboratório Associado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa/Porto, Porto, Portugal.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Apr;43(2):225-234. doi: 10.1111/ics.12686. Epub 2021 Feb 21.

Abstract

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to correlate new experimental data relevant to the description of the combined evaporation/permeation process of a perfume applied onto the skin.

METHODS

The vapour pressure data were measured by thermogravimetric analysis (TG-DTA). The Antoine constants and the Clarke and Glew parameters were determined for the same set of fragrance molecules to describe its low vapour pressures at new temperature ranges. The permeability coefficient of a set of 14 fragrance molecules in ethanolic solution was determined by Franz diffusion cell experiments, using porcine skin. The samples were analysed by gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) and high-performance liquid chromatography with UV visible detector (HPLC/UV). A QSAR model was proposed to correlate the experimental data.

RESULTS

The Antoine constants were determined and presented low standard deviations. The Clarke and Glew physically significant parameters were obtained along with its statistical analysis. The fitting is good since the magnitude order is in accordance with the literature, associated with the low correlation between the estimated parameters and low standard deviations. The presented correlation, based on a mixture using only ethanol as solvent, showed better results than previous QSAR models with a standard relative deviation ( of 0.190, a standard error (SE) of 0.397 and a determination coefficient (R ) of 0.7786.

CONCLUSION

The dataset is still small compared to larger and more general QSAR models; however, it is much more specific as to the type of solvent and class of materials studied. This work represents an advance for the modelling of the perfume diffusion process since it specifies important properties that until then had been treated in a more general way.

摘要

目的

本研究旨在关联与描述应用于皮肤的香水的蒸发/渗透过程的新实验数据。

方法

通过热重分析(TG-DTA)测量蒸气压力数据。为同一组香料分子确定了 Antoine 常数和 Clarke 和 Glew 参数,以描述其在新温度范围内的低蒸气压。通过 Franz 扩散池实验,使用猪皮,确定了一组 14 种香料分子在乙醇溶液中的渗透系数。使用气相色谱仪(GC/FID)和高效液相色谱仪(HPLC/UV)对样品进行分析。提出了一个 QSAR 模型来关联实验数据。

结果

确定了 Antoine 常数,并呈现出低标准偏差。获得了 Clarke 和 Glew 具有物理意义的参数及其统计分析。拟合良好,因为数量级与文献一致,与估计参数之间的低相关性和低标准偏差相关。基于仅使用乙醇作为溶剂的混合物提出的相关性,与以前的 QSAR 模型相比,具有更好的结果,标准相对偏差( 为 0.190,标准误差(SE)为 0.397,确定系数(R )为 0.7786。

结论

与更大和更通用的 QSAR 模型相比,数据集仍然较小;然而,它对于所研究的溶剂类型和材料类别来说更加具体。这项工作代表了香水扩散过程建模的一个进步,因为它指定了直到那时以更通用的方式处理的重要性质。

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