Kostajnšek Klara, Dimitrovski Krste, Kadoğlu Hüseyin, Çelik Pinar, Başal Bayraktar Güldemet, Bedez Üte Tuba, Duran Deniz, Ertekin Mustafa, Demšar Andrej, Bizjak Matejka
Department of Textiles, Graphics Art and Design, Faculty for Natural Sciences and Engineering, University of Ljubljana, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Ege University, Bornova, 35100 Izmir, Turkey.
Polymers (Basel). 2021 Jan 14;13(2):260. doi: 10.3390/polym13020260.
Elasticity and recovery are important for clothing comfort, especially in the manufacture of apparel and sportswear. Recently, yarns containing PBT (polybutylene terephthalate), which are able to develop good elastic properties with high recovery after a finishing process (e.g., thermal treatment), have been used for this purpose. The aim of this work is to give a comprehensive overview of the use of PBT yarns in woven structure, with the aim of improving the elastic properties of cotton-like fabrics. The experimental part was divided into three main sequences to investigate the fabric properties (physical, elastic, UPF, comfort) influenced by (1) PBT-containing yarn structure, (2) weave and fabric structure (basic weaves and complex weaves) with PBT in weft direction, and (3) processing sequence-thermal treatment of PBT yarns or fabrics after weaving. According to the results, PBT-containing yarns have great potential for the production of lightweight elastic fabrics. The advantages of improving the elastic properties of fabrics by incorporating a relatively small amount of PBT yarns into the fabric only in certain areas, thereby minimally affecting the production costs, are demonstrated by a product with partially elastic areas obtained after thermal treatment.
弹性和回复性对服装舒适性很重要,尤其在服装和运动服装制造中。近来,含聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)的纱线已用于此目的,这种纱线在经过整理工艺(如热处理)后能展现出良好的弹性性能和高回复率。这项工作的目的是全面概述PBT纱线在机织结构中的应用,以提高类棉织物的弹性性能。实验部分分为三个主要环节,以研究受以下因素影响的织物性能(物理性能、弹性性能、紫外线防护系数、舒适性):(1)含PBT纱线的结构;(2)纬向含PBT的织造和织物结构(基本组织和复杂组织);(3)加工顺序——织造后PBT纱线或织物的热处理。根据结果,含PBT纱线在生产轻质弹性织物方面具有巨大潜力。通过在织物特定区域仅加入相对少量的PBT纱线来提高织物弹性性能,从而将生产成本影响降至最低,这一优势在热处理后获得的具有部分弹性区域的产品中得到了体现。