Kim Hyun-Ah
Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry, 45-26, Palgong-ro, Dong-gu, Daegu 41028, Korea.
Materials (Basel). 2021 Oct 19;14(20):6205. doi: 10.3390/ma14206205.
This study examined the moisture vapor permeability and thermal wear comfort of ecofriendly fiber-embedded woven fabrics in terms of the yarn structure and the constituent fiber characteristics according to two measuring methods. The moisture vapor permeability measured using the upright cup (CaCl) method (JIS L 1099A-1) was primarily dependent on the hygroscopicity of the ecofriendly constituent fibers in the yarns and partly influenced by the pore size in the fabric because of the yarn structure. On the other hand, the moisture vapor resistance measured using the sweating guarded hot plate method (ISO 11092) was governed mainly by the fabric pore size and partly by the hygroscopicity of the constituent ecofriendly fibers. The difference between the two measuring methods was attributed to the different mechanisms in the measuring method. The thermal conductivity as a measure of the thermal wear comfort of the composite yarn fabrics was governed primarily by the pore size in the fabric and partly by the thermal characteristics of the constituent fibers in the yarns. Lastly, considering market applications, the Coolmax/Tencel sheath/core fabric appears useful for winter warm feeling clothing because of its the good breathability with low thermal conductivity. The bamboo and Coolmax/bamboo fabrics are suitable for summer clothing with a cool feel because of their high thermal conductivity with good breathability. Overall, ecofriendly fibers (bamboo and Tencel) are of practical use for marketing environmentallyfriendly high-performance clothing.
本研究根据两种测量方法,从纱线结构和组成纤维特性方面,对嵌入环保纤维的机织物的透湿性和热穿着舒适性进行了研究。使用直立杯(CaCl)法(JIS L 1099A-1)测量的透湿性主要取决于纱线中环保组成纤维的吸湿性,并且由于纱线结构,部分受织物孔径的影响。另一方面,使用出汗热防护板法(ISO 11092)测量的透湿阻力主要由织物孔径决定,部分由组成环保纤维的吸湿性决定。两种测量方法之间的差异归因于测量方法中的不同机制。作为复合纱线织物热穿着舒适性度量的热导率主要由织物孔径决定,部分由纱线中组成纤维的热特性决定。最后,考虑到市场应用,Coolmax/Tencel皮芯织物因其低导热率下的良好透气性,似乎适用于冬季保暖服装。竹纤维以及Coolmax/竹纤维织物因其高导热率和良好透气性,适合用于具有凉爽感觉的夏季服装。总体而言,环保纤维(竹纤维和天丝)在销售环保高性能服装方面具有实际用途。