Department of Analytical Chemistry and Toxicology, Hanoi University of Pharmacy, Hanoi, Vietnam.
Faculty of Chemistry and Center for Computational Science, Hanoi National University of Education, Hanoi, Vietnam.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Dec;43(6):715-728. doi: 10.1111/ics.12747. Epub 2021 Nov 12.
Fatty alcohol-polysorbate 60-water ternary systems were used as models to represent the continuous phases of the respective semisolid oil-in-water emulsions for topical delivery of cosmetic and medicinal agents. The influence of batch variation of polysorbate 60 and fatty alcohol on structure and consistency of these systems was investigated using microscopy, rheology, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray scattering techniques. The polysorbate 60 : cetostearyl alcohol mixed emulsifying wax showed swelling in water, that is, the lamellar repeat distance continually augmented from 93 to 125 Å with water percentage 20-90%. Cetostearyl alcohol ternary systems were thicker than cetyl alcohol ones independently of polysorbate 60 batches used. All the ternary systems showed an initial increase in consistency over the first 2 weeks of storage, which was followed by slight changes in consistency (cetostearyl alcohol systems) due to the re-allocation of polysorbate 60 molecules in the gel network or significant breakdown of structure (cetyl alcohol systems) due to the transformation of swollen α-lamellar gel phase into β, γ crystals on 25°C storage. With all fatty alcohols, the consistency of polysorbate 60 ternary system was directly dependent upon interlamellar water thickness as governed by the length and distribution of polyoxyethylene groups within polysorbate 60 molecules. In relation with the composition of polysorbate 60 batches used, the consistency of ternary systems was higher when prepared with the polysorbate 60 batch containing a greater amount of sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters. It was proposed that the swollen α-crystalline gel phase could be better formed by sorbitan polyoxyethylene monoesters rather than sorbitan polyoxyethylene diesters.
脂肪醇-聚山梨酯 60-水三元体系被用作模型,以代表用于局部递送化妆品和药物制剂的各半固体油包水乳液的连续相。使用显微镜、流变学、差示扫描量热法和 X 射线散射技术研究了聚山梨酯 60 和脂肪醇的批次变化对半固体油包水乳液连续相的结构和稠度的影响。聚山梨酯 60-十六十八醇混合乳化蜡在水中发生溶胀,即层状重复距离连续从 93Å 增加到 125Å,水含量为 20-90%。十六十八醇三元体系的稠度独立于所使用的聚山梨酯 60 批次,均大于十六醇三元体系。所有三元体系在储存的前 2 周内稠度都有初始增加,随后由于凝胶网络中聚山梨酯 60 分子的重新分配或由于在 25°C 储存时溶胀的α-层状凝胶相转变为β、γ晶体,稠度略有变化(十六十八醇体系)。对于所有脂肪醇,聚山梨酯 60 三元体系的稠度直接取决于层间水的厚度,而层间水的厚度又由聚山梨酯 60 分子内聚氧乙烯基团的长度和分布决定。与所使用的聚山梨酯 60 批次的组成有关,当使用含有更多山梨坦聚氧乙烯单酯的聚山梨酯 60 批次制备三元体系时,其稠度更高。据推测,山梨坦聚氧乙烯单酯比山梨坦聚氧乙烯二酯更能形成溶胀的α-结晶凝胶相。