Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand/Innovation Center for Holistic Health, Nutraceuticals and Cosmeceuticals, Faculty of Pharmacy, Chiang Mai University, Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Pak J Pharm Sci. 2021 Jul;34(4):1437-1444.
This study aimed to optimize and develop the color lipstick formulation containing antioxidant-rich Thai Sacha inchi oil using full factorial experimental design. Antioxidant capacity of Sacha inchi oil was elucidated using DPPH and linoleic acid peroxidation assays. The y-tocopherol content of the oil was also determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. Developing the color lipstick, lipstick base was optimized through the variation of %Sacha inchi oil, Ozokerite and Carnauba wax ratio (O:C ratio) and %Fat. Concurrently, the influences of these factors on lipstick physical characteristics were analyzed by means of statistics. Thai Sacha inchi oil exerted a notable antioxidant capacity with the highest y-tocopherol content. The combined effect of all factors influenced on the variations of breaking point and hardness of the lipsticks. Otherwise, only the O: C ratio negatively affected on melting point. The color lipstick containing methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and stearyl dimethicone as texture enhancers, significantly provided a greater color transfer than the plain formulation. In conclusion, Thai Sacha inchi oil could be a promising antioxidant-rich oil for developing into color lipstick. To evolve the desirable lipstick, the optimum proportion of wax, fat and oil played a crucial role in both structural integrity as well as texture and spreadability.
本研究旨在使用全因子实验设计优化和开发含有富含抗氧化剂的泰国印奇油的彩色口红配方。使用 DPPH 和亚油酸过氧化测定法阐明印奇油的抗氧化能力。油中的 y-生育酚含量也通过高效液相色谱法确定。通过改变 Sacha inchi 油、地蜡和巴西棕榈蜡的比例（O:C 比）和脂肪的百分比来优化彩色口红的基础配方。同时，通过统计学方法分析这些因素对口红物理特性的影响。泰国印奇油表现出显著的抗氧化能力，具有最高的 y-生育酚含量。所有因素的综合影响导致口红的断裂点和硬度发生变化。此外，只有 O:C 比会对熔点产生负面影响。含有甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物和硬脂基二甲基硅氧烷作为纹理增强剂的彩色口红，与普通配方相比，明显提供了更大的颜色转移。总之，泰国印奇油可以成为一种有前途的富含抗氧化剂的油，可用于开发彩色口红。为了开发出理想的口红，蜡、脂肪和油的最佳比例对结构完整性以及质地和延展性都起着至关重要的作用。
