Department of Chemical and Biochemical Engineering, Dongguk University, Seoul, Korea.
Research and Innovation Center, AMOREPACIFIC, Yongin-si, Korea.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4931-4941. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14905. Epub 2022 Mar 16.
New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine (PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae, and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids.
The aim of this study was to investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.
The expressions of genes related to epidermal differentiation were analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect to TEWL and SC cohesion.
The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14, and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP, had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.
Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP, and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.
新型神经酰胺（CER）纳米颗粒通过将源自韩国传统植物油的脂肪酸与植物鞘氨醇（PHS）连接而制备。韩国传统植物油是从人参、茶树、大豆 napjakong、大豆 seoritae 和山茶花的种子中提取的，作为多种脂肪酸的来源。
本研究旨在研究经柱层析纯化以去除任何残留 PHS 的 HP-C.sinensis 神经酰胺 NP 的信号生物活性，并评估 HP-C.sinensis 神经酰胺 NP 对人体皮肤的屏障功能。
通过 qPCR 分析体外与表皮分化相关的基因表达。还进行了人体研究，以确定 TEWL 和 SC 内聚性与皮肤屏障功能的关系。
HP-C.sinensis CER NP 显著增强了 FLG、CASP14 和 INV 的表达，这表明油衍生的神经酰胺 NP 的信号生物活性可能因天然油而异。对照神经酰胺 C18-CER NP 对这三个基因的表达没有影响。选择 HP-C.sinensis CER NP 进行体内人体研究。0.5% HP-C.sinensis CER NP 乳膏的应用可显著促进受损皮肤屏障的更快恢复，优于对照 C18-CER NP。还观察到用 0.5% HP-C.sinensis CER NP 处理的皮肤 SC 内聚性显著增强。
综上所述，我们的结果清楚地表明，HP-C.sinensis CER NP、人参 CER NP 和其他油衍生的 CER NP 可能是开发保湿剂以改善皮肤屏障功能的更好选择，因为它们更接近实际人体皮肤屏障的内源性 CER 组成。
