Lin Lina, Jiang Tiancheng, Liang Yonghong, Zhu Wenju, Inamdar Umarsharif Y, Pervez Md Nahid, Navik Rahul, Yang Xiaojun, Cai Yingjie, Naddeo Vincenzo
Hubei Provincial Engineering Laboratory for Clean Production and High-Value Utilization of Bio-Based Textile Materials, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430200, China.
Engineering Research Centre for Clean Production of Textile Dyeing and Printing, Ministry of Education, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430200, China.
Materials (Basel). 2022 Mar 11;15(6):2092. doi: 10.3390/ma15062092.
The dyeing process commonly deteriorates the luster of pre-mercerized cotton fabric, so post-mercerization processes are regularly applied to compensate for this. Herein, the influence of combining pre-mercerization with CS (caustic solution) or LA (liquid ammonia) and post-mercerization with CS or LA on the morphological structure, dyeing performance, tensile strength, and stiffness of woven cotton fabric was investigated. The crystallinity index values greatly decreased from 73.12 to 51.25, 58.73, 38.42, and 40.90% after the combined mercerization processes of LA-LA, CS-CS, LA-CS, and CS-LA, respectively. Additionally, the CS-LA- and LA-CS-treated samples exhibited a mixture of cellulose II and cellulose III allomorphs. The combined mercerization processing of cotton fabric resulted in slightly worse thermal stability. The LA and CS pre-mercerization processes increased the dye exhaustion, although the former decreased the dye fixation rate while the latter increased it by 4% for both dyes. The color strength of the dyed cotton fabric increased after both post-mercerization processes. Moreover, the fabric stiffness and mechanical properties showed an increasing trend due to the combined mercerization efforts.
染色过程通常会使预丝光棉织物的光泽度变差，因此经常采用后丝光工艺来弥补这一问题。在此，研究了将预丝光与CS（苛性碱溶液）或LA（液氨）相结合以及后丝光与CS或LA相结合对机织棉织物的形态结构、染色性能、拉伸强度和刚度的影响。在LA-LA、CS-CS、LA-CS和CS-LA的联合丝光处理后，结晶度指数值分别从73.12%大幅降至51.25%、58.73%、38.42%和40.90%。此外，经CS-LA和LA-CS处理的样品呈现出纤维素II和纤维素III同质多晶型的混合物。棉织物的联合丝光处理导致热稳定性略有下降。LA和CS预丝光工艺提高了染料的上染率，尽管前者降低了固色率，而后者对两种染料的固色率均提高了4%。两种后丝光处理后，染色棉织物的色强度均有所增加。此外，由于联合丝光处理，织物的刚度和机械性能呈上升趋势。
