Prokopov Aleksei, Drobintseva Anna, Kvetnoy Igor, Gazitaeva Zarema, Sidorina Anna
Laboratoires Fijie SAS, Paris, France.
Department of Medical Biology, Saint-Petersburg State Pediatric Medical University, Saint-Petersburg, Russian Federation.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Jan;22(1):156-172. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15078. Epub 2022 Jun 21.
Normal circadian rhythms are essential to the repair mechanisms of oxidative stress implicated in skin aging. Given reports that hyaluronic acid (HA) homeostasis exhibits a different profile in chronological skin aging, as compared to environmental or extrinsic aging, an improved understanding of the way HA interacts with its surroundings, and the impact of HA injectables in replacing lost HA and encouraging rejuvenation, is of key benefit to skin aging treatments. The objectives of these current studies were twofold. Firstly, to demonstrate the in vitro effects of two lightweight hyaluronic-based injectables on the expression of CLOCK protein in human skin fibroblasts, and their effects on Klotho protein expression as a marker for circadian rhythms in a combined human keratinocyte and Merkel cell model. Secondly, to ascertain whether these findings could be correlated with in vitro effects on various environmental oxidative stress aging markers (blue light, UVA/UVB, Urban Dust, and IR exposures).
Oxidative stress studies were aimed to highlight possible protective effects through different challenge conditions in two models, ex vivo human skin explants and in vitro monolayer cultures of normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). The protective effects of the test products were evaluated against an increase of cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) abundance within epidermal section of ex vivo skin explants after UVA/UVB radiation; effects of blue light on gene expression from NHDFs fibroblasts; effects of pollutants (Urban dust, UbD) on gene expression in NHDFs fibroblasts; and an increase of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production by NHDFs fibroblasts after infrared-A radiation. Gene expression was assayed and analyzed utilizing microfluidic TaqMan qPCR arrays. CLOCK expression was measured in young and senescing NHDFs by immunostaining, and Klotho and melatonin expression by immunostaining in Merkel cell-enriched normal adult human epidermal cell cultures.
In an aging culture of mixed keratinocyte and Merkel skin cells, activation of Klotho expression was induced by the application of both HA test products. Moreover, the HA products increase Klotho protein expression in both Merkel cells and keratinocytes. The observed positive effect of the tested products on melatonin receptors 1A and 1B expression in aging Merkel cell culture and keratinocytes is also interesting. HA-Y (developed for patients 25+ years old) stimulated melatonin receptors type 1B expression in aging cell cultures more strongly than HA-S (developed for patients 35-65 years old). In age (stressed) cells, a lower expression of Klotho protein and melatonin receptors 1A and 1B is apparent. The addition of HA-Y and HA-S stimulates their expression thus providing a "protective" effect. The blue light irradiation at 40 J/cm performed in NHDF fibroblast cultures led to a modification of the expression of several genes, all involved in mechanisms known to be modulated in case of solar radiation stress.
Although these are preliminary findings, they are the first we know of that demonstrate HA facial injectables having a benefit and possibilities beyond the "physical filling" of the skin. As regards the beneficial effects against blue light-induced oxidative stress, and a return to cellular homeostasis, there is a need to conduct further and more precise investigations into HA-S. Furthermore, the benefit of these HA injectables (Novacutan®) in the modulation of oxidative stressed circadian rhythms widens their potential benefit.
正常的昼夜节律对于皮肤衰老中涉及的氧化应激修复机制至关重要。鉴于有报道称,与环境性或外源性衰老相比,透明质酸(HA)稳态在自然性皮肤衰老中呈现出不同的特征,因此,更好地理解HA与其周围环境相互作用的方式,以及HA注射剂在补充流失的HA和促进年轻化方面的作用,对于皮肤衰老治疗具有关键意义。当前这些研究的目标有两个。其一,证明两种轻质透明质酸基注射剂对人皮肤成纤维细胞中CLOCK蛋白表达的体外影响,以及它们在人角质形成细胞和默克尔细胞联合模型中对作为昼夜节律标志物的Klotho蛋白表达的影响。其二,确定这些发现是否与对各种环境氧化应激衰老标志物(蓝光、紫外线A/紫外线B、城市灰尘和红外线照射)的体外影响相关。
氧化应激研究旨在通过两种模型中的不同挑战条件突出可能的保护作用,即离体人皮肤外植体和正常人皮肤成纤维细胞(NHDF)的体外单层培养。在紫外线A/紫外线B辐射后,评估测试产品对离体皮肤外植体表皮切片中环丁烷嘧啶二聚体(CPD)丰度增加的保护作用;蓝光对NHDF成纤维细胞基因表达的影响;污染物(城市灰尘,UbD)对NHDF成纤维细胞基因表达的影响;以及红外线A辐射后NHDF成纤维细胞活性氧(ROS)产生的增加。利用微流控TaqMan qPCR阵列检测和分析基因表达。通过免疫染色检测年轻和衰老NHDF中的CLOCK表达,并在富含默克尔细胞的正常成人表皮细胞培养物中通过免疫染色检测Klotho和褪黑素表达。
在混合角质形成细胞和默克尔皮肤细胞的衰老培养物中,两种HA测试产品的应用均诱导了Klotho表达的激活。此外,HA产品增加了默克尔细胞和角质形成细胞中Klotho蛋白的表达。测试产品对衰老默克尔细胞培养物和角质形成细胞中褪黑素受体1A和1B表达的观察到的积极作用也很有趣。HA - Y(为25岁以上患者开发)比HA - S(为35 - 65岁患者开发)更强烈地刺激衰老细胞培养物中褪黑素受体1B的表达。在衰老(应激)细胞中,Klotho蛋白以及褪黑素受体1A和1B的表达较低。添加HA - Y和HA - S刺激它们的表达,从而提供一种“保护”作用。在NHDF成纤维细胞培养物中进行的40 J/cm的蓝光照射导致几个基因表达的改变,所有这些基因都参与了已知在太阳辐射应激情况下会被调节的机制。
尽管这些是初步发现,但据我们所知,它们首次证明了HA面部注射剂除了对皮肤进行“物理填充”之外还具有益处和可能性。关于对蓝光诱导的氧化应激的有益作用以及恢复细胞内稳态,有必要对HA - S进行进一步更精确的研究。此外,这些HA注射剂(诺瓦库坦®)在调节氧化应激昼夜节律方面的益处拓宽了它们的潜在益处。