Mirzamani Marzieh, Flickinger Marc, Dawn Arnab, Aswal Vinod, Hammouda Boualem, Jones Ronald L, Smith Edward D, Kumari Harshita
James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati Cincinnati OH 45219-0004 USA
The Procter & Gamble Company 8700 Mason Montgomery Road Mason OH 45040 USA.
RSC Adv. 2022 May 17;12(24):14998-15007. doi: 10.1039/d2ra00688j.
Personal care products commonly contain perfume mixtures, consisting of numerous perfume raw materials (PRMs), and cosolvents. The lipophilicity and structure of an individual PRM is known to affect its localization within the surfactant self-assembly as well as the micellar geometry. However, because multiple PRMs are used in formulations, significant intermolecular interactions between the PRMs and between the PRMs and the surfactant tail may also influence the location of the PRMs and their effects on the self-assembly. Herein, two anionic/zwitterionic mixed-surfactant systems (sodium trideceth-2 sulfate (ST2S)/cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and sodium laureth-3 sulfate/CAPB) were formulated with a cosolvent (dipropylene glycol (DPG)) and 12 PRMs of varying structures and lipophilicities. This 12 PRM accord is simpler than a fully formulated perfume but more complex than a single perfume molecule. The geometric variations in the self-assemblies were evaluated using small-angle neutron scattering, perfume head space concentrations were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, and perfume localization was identified using NMR spectroscopy. The addition of the perfume accord caused enlargement of the micelles in both surfactant systems, with a greater change observed for ST2S/CAPB formulations. Furthermore, the addition of DPG to ST2S/CAPB resulted in micelle shrinkage. The micelle geometries and PRM localization in the micelles were affected by the degree of branching in the surfactant tail.
个人护理产品通常含有香料混合物,该混合物由多种香料原料(PRM)和助溶剂组成。已知单个PRM的亲脂性和结构会影响其在表面活性剂自组装体系中的定位以及胶束的几何形状。然而,由于配方中使用了多种PRM,PRM之间以及PRM与表面活性剂尾部之间显著的分子间相互作用也可能影响PRM的定位及其对自组装的影响。在此,用助溶剂(二丙二醇(DPG))以及12种结构和亲脂性各异的PRM配制了两种阴离子/两性离子混合表面活性剂体系(十三烷醇聚醚-2硫酸酯钠(ST2S)/椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱(CAPB)和月桂醇聚醚-3硫酸酯钠/CAPB)。这种12种PRM的组合比完全配制好的香水简单,但比单个香料分子复杂。使用小角中子散射评估自组装体系中的几何变化,使用气相色谱-质谱法测定香料顶空浓度,并使用核磁共振光谱法确定香料的定位。添加香料组合导致两种表面活性剂体系中的胶束均增大,在ST2S/CAPB配方中观察到的变化更大。此外,向ST2S/CAPB中添加DPG导致胶束收缩。胶束的几何形状和PRM在胶束中的定位受表面活性剂尾部支化程度的影响。