Bascuñan-Wiley Nicholas, DeSoucey Michaela, Fine Gary Alan
Department of Sociology, Northwestern University, 1810 Chicago Avenue, IL 60208 Evanston, USA.
Department of Sociology & Anthropology, North Carolina State University, Campus Box 8107, 1911 Building, NC 27695 Raleigh, USA.
Qual Sociol. 2022;45(3):371-392. doi: 10.1007/s11133-022-09512-8. Epub 2022 Jul 28.
Sociology's focus on sociality and co-presence has long oriented studies of commensality-the social dimension of eating together. This literature commonly prioritizes face-to-face interactions and takes physical proximity for granted. The onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in March 2020 largely halted in-person gatherings and altered everyday foodways. Consequently, many people turned to , cooking and eating together through video-call technology such as Zoom and FaceTime. We explore the implications of these new foodways and ask: has digital commensality helped cultivate co-presence amidst pandemic-induced physical separation? If so, how? To address these questions, we analyze two forms of qualitative data collected by the first author: interviews with individuals who cooked and ate together at a distance since March 2020 and digital ethnography during different groups' online food events (e.g., happy hours, dinners, holiday gatherings, and birthday celebrations). Digital commensality helps foster a sense of co-presence and social connectedness at a distance. Specifically, participants use three temporally oriented strategies to create or maintain co-presence: they draw on pre-pandemic pasts and reinvent culinary traditions to meet new circumstances; they creatively adapt novel digital foodways through online dining; and they actively imagine post-pandemic futures where physically proximate commensality is again possible.
社会学对社会性和共在性的关注长期以来一直主导着对共餐(一起用餐的社会维度)的研究。这类文献通常将面对面互动置于优先地位,并视身体上的亲近为理所当然。2020年3月新冠疫情的爆发基本停止了线下聚会,并改变了日常饮食方式。因此,许多人转向通过Zoom和FaceTime等视频通话技术一起做饭和用餐。我们探讨了这些新饮食方式的影响,并提出问题:数字共餐是否有助于在疫情导致的身体隔离中培养共在感?如果是,如何做到的?为了解决这些问题,我们分析了第一作者收集的两种定性数据:对自2020年3月以来远程一起做饭和用餐的个人的访谈,以及对不同群体在线饮食活动(如欢乐时光、晚餐、节日聚会和生日庆祝活动)的数字民族志研究。数字共餐有助于在一定距离上培养共在感和社会联系。具体而言,参与者运用三种与时间相关的策略来创造或维持共在感:他们借鉴疫情前的过往经历,重塑烹饪传统以适应新情况;他们通过在线用餐创造性地采用新颖的数字饮食方式;他们积极想象疫情后的未来,届时再次实现身体亲近的共餐将成为可能。