Markiewicz-Tomczyk Agata, Budzisz Elżbieta, Erkiert-Polguj Anna
Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, Lodz, Poland.
Department of Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, Lodz, Poland.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Dec;21(12):6830-6839. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15359. Epub 2022 Sep 25.
Vitamins C, E, and A and substances of plant origin, including azelaic acid and phytic acid are frequently used in cosmetic preparations to counteract oxidative stress and negative effects of free radicals. The aim of the study was to evaluate a novel combined therapy consisting of azelaic acid, ascorbic acid, and phytic acid applied layer on layer.
Twenty study participants received a series of eight treatments performed every 7 days. Twenty percent azelaic acid and then 30% phytic acid were applied to the entire face, while 40% l-ascorbic acid only on the left side. The preparations were applied layer by layer. Skin parameters were measured before the series of treatments (T0), after the series of eight treatments (T1-8 weeks), and 1 month after the end of the treatment (T2-12 weeks).
The application of two and three active compounds resulted in a significant improvement in erythema and hyperpigmentation both on the forehead and the cheeks, however, more pronounced effects were observed when all the three active compounds were used. Both applied types of treatment considerably increased skin moisture. All the participants (100%) were satisfied with the effects of the treatment. A majority of them reported an improvement in skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, more uniform skin tone and a reduction of skin redness and wrinkles.
Topical application of these active compounds resulted in improvement of skin elasticity and flexibility, reduction of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, erythema, and telangiectasia as well as amelioration of skin tone.
维生素C、E、A以及包括壬二酸和植酸在内的植物源性物质常用于化妆品制剂中,以对抗氧化应激和自由基的负面影响。本研究的目的是评估一种由壬二酸、抗坏血酸和植酸逐层应用组成的新型联合疗法。
20名研究参与者每7天接受一系列共8次治疗。将20%的壬二酸然后30%的植酸涂抹于全脸,而40%的L-抗坏血酸仅涂抹于左侧脸部。制剂逐层涂抹。在一系列治疗前(T0)、8次治疗后(T1 - 8周)以及治疗结束后1个月(T2 - 12周)测量皮肤参数。
使用两种和三种活性化合物均使额头和脸颊的红斑和色素沉着显著改善,然而,当使用所有三种活性化合物时观察到更明显的效果。两种治疗方式均显著增加了皮肤水分。所有参与者(100%)对治疗效果满意。他们中的大多数人报告皮肤水合作用、紧致度和弹性有所改善,肤色更均匀,皮肤发红和皱纹减少。
局部应用这些活性化合物可改善皮肤弹性和柔韧性,减少皱纹、色素沉着、红斑和毛细血管扩张,并改善肤色。