Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas (UNICAMP), 200, Cândido Portinari St., "Cidade Universitária Zeferino Vaz", 13083-871, Campinas, SP, Brazil.
Curr Med Chem. 2023;30(29):3272-3286. doi: 10.2174/0929867329666221003102238.
The topical use of vitamin C has been explored for many decades due to its antioxidant potential, whitening action, and the essential role it plays in the synthesis and maintenance of collagen. As Ascorbic Acid (AA) is unstable, derivative molecules and stabilization strategies have been explored to facilitate its incorporation into dermatological products. Even though these molecules are already for sale, there is still a shortage of scientific data regarding efficacy studies of these assets, especially in vivo.
The purpose of this review was to investigate and discuss issues regarding the topical application of vitamin C and its most common derivatives, including the difficulties, biases, and prospects for future clinical studies to better elucidate its effects.
A literature review was carried out to select studies that evaluated the topical use of ascorbic acid and/or its derivatives. The studies which are "fully available", "in vivo" and "in vitro", were used as inclusion criteria.
Due to the instability of Ascorbic Acid, it is essential to study derivative molecules that maintain or even improve their effectiveness in dermatological products. Despite this, the studies of these derivatives presented in the scientific literature are mostly in vitro. In recent years, it has been possible to observe an increase in in vivo efficacy tests, and this trend is expected to continue in the future. However, they present very different approaches and issues.
Studies of stability, safety, adverse reactions, and especially in vivo efficacy studies with a relevant number of subjects and standardized parameters are essential for better elucidating the effects of the topical application of vitamin C derivatives in comparison to ascorbic acid formulations for the skin.
由于其抗氧化潜力、美白作用以及在胶原蛋白合成和维持中所起的重要作用，维生素 C 的局部应用已经被探索了几十年。由于抗坏血酸（AA）不稳定，因此已经探索了衍生分子和稳定策略来促进其纳入皮肤科产品。尽管这些分子已经上市，但关于这些资产的疗效研究，尤其是体内研究，仍然缺乏科学数据。
本综述的目的是研究和讨论维生素 C 及其最常见衍生物的局部应用问题，包括其困难、偏见以及未来临床研究的前景，以更好地阐明其作用。
进行了文献回顾，以选择评估抗坏血酸及其衍生物局部应用的研究。选择“完全可用”、“体内”和“体外”的研究作为纳入标准。
由于抗坏血酸不稳定，研究保持甚至提高其在皮肤科产品中有效性的衍生分子至关重要。尽管如此，科学文献中报道的这些衍生物的研究大多是在体外进行的。近年来，已经可以观察到体内功效测试的增加，预计这种趋势将在未来继续。然而，它们提出了非常不同的方法和问题。
对于更好地阐明与 AA 制剂相比，维生素 C 衍生物的局部应用对皮肤的影响，进行稳定性、安全性、不良反应以及特别是具有相关数量的受试者和标准化参数的体内功效研究至关重要。
