Biological Science Research, Kao Corporation, Tochigi, Japan.
Skin Care Products Research, Kao Corporation, Odawara, Japan.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Aug;22(8):2308-2317. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15697. Epub 2023 Mar 8.
Redness of the facial skin is an important cosmetic concern. Although qualitative and quantitative modifications of sebum on the skin surface are major pathogenic factors of chronic inflammatory skin conditions, the relationship between skin redness, sebum, and mild inflammation on the cheeks of healthy subjects remains elusive.
We aimed to explore the correlation between cheek redness and sebum and inflammatory cytokines in the stratum corneum (SC) of healthy subjects. We also examined the effects of representative sebum lipids on the gene expression of inflammatory cytokines in cultured keratinocytes.
PATIENTS/METHODS: This study included 198 healthy participants. Skin sebum was analyzed using flow injection analysis, and skin redness was assessed using a spectrophotometer. Inflammatory cytokines in tape-stripped SC were measured using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.
Cheek redness parameters positively correlated with the amount of skin sebum and the proportion of monounsaturated free fatty acids (C16:1 and C18:1) in the sebum. They also positively correlated with the interleukin (IL)-36γ/IL-37 ratio in the SC. Among the representative sebum lipids examined, oleic acid (C18:1, cis-9) dose- and time-dependently regulated the mRNA expression of IL-36γ and IL-37 in cultured keratinocytes, and this effect was attenuated by the N-methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA)-type glutamate receptor antagonist, MK801.
Skin surface sebum may be related to cheek redness in healthy subjects, and oleic acid-induced IL-36γ through NMDA-type glutamate receptors may be a link between them. Our study provides a possible skincare strategy for mitigating unfavorable increase in skin redness by targeting the facial skin sebum, particularly oleic acid.
面部皮肤发红是一个重要的美容关注点。虽然皮肤表面皮脂的定性和定量变化是慢性炎症性皮肤疾病的主要致病因素，但健康受试者脸颊皮肤发红、皮脂和轻度炎症之间的关系仍不清楚。
我们旨在探讨健康受试者脸颊发红与皮脂和角质层（SC）中炎症细胞因子之间的相关性。我们还研究了代表性皮脂脂质对培养角质细胞中炎症细胞因子基因表达的影响。
患者/方法：本研究纳入了 198 名健康参与者。使用流动注射分析评估皮肤皮脂，使用分光光度计评估皮肤发红。使用酶联免疫吸附试验测量胶带剥离的 SC 中的炎症细胞因子。
脸颊发红参数与皮脂量和皮脂中单不饱和游离脂肪酸（C16:1 和 C18:1）的比例呈正相关。它们还与 SC 中的白细胞介素（IL）-36γ/IL-37 比值呈正相关。在所检查的代表性皮脂脂质中，油酸（C18:1，顺式-9）呈剂量和时间依赖性调节培养角质细胞中 IL-36γ 和 IL-37 的 mRNA 表达，这种作用可被 N-甲基-D-天冬氨酸（NMDA）型谷氨酸受体拮抗剂 MK801 减弱。
皮肤表面皮脂可能与健康受试者的脸颊发红有关，而通过 NMDA 型谷氨酸受体诱导的油酸诱导的 IL-36γ 可能是它们之间的联系。我们的研究为通过针对面部皮肤皮脂，特别是油酸，提供了一种可能的护肤策略，以减轻皮肤发红的不利增加。
