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通过对棉包双芯氨纶和T400复丝进行纺纱优化生产低起球(生长)弹力牛仔纱。

Low-bagging (growth) stretch denim yarn production by spinning optimization of cotton-wrapped dual-core elastane and T400 multifilament.

作者信息

Rahim Md Abdur, Rahman Sadikur, Uddin Ahmed Jalal

机构信息

Department of Yarn Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Tejgaon, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Department of Textile Engineering, National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research, Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh.

出版信息

Heliyon. 2023 Feb 11;9(3):e13639. doi: 10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e13639. eCollection 2023 Mar.

Abstract

Cotton-wrapped elastane core yarns have been widely used in producing stretch denim fabrics due to their comfortable stretching and recovery, but they suffer from undesirable fabric growth under prolonged or repeated stress. To reduce that problem, an additional semi-elastic multifilament has been incorporated with the elastane core, called dual-core yarn. Herein, it was intended to produce well-engineered dual-core yarns possessing high elasticity with low bagging. Twenty types of cotton-wrapped elastane/T400 multifilament dual-core yarns with different combinations of elastane and T400 tension draft were produced on industrial scale in a spinning mill. Structural parameters, tensile properties and elastic recovery behavior under cyclic loading of the yarns were thoroughly studied. For an optimum combination of elastane/T400 draft, the dual-core yarn attained excellent tenacity and elongation with significantly low evenness, imperfections and hairiness values. More importantly, the results of the cyclic loading study explicitly revealed a remarkable reduction in plastic deformation and stress decay indicating low growth and high resilience of yarn after deformation. The dual-core yarn containing high strength, high elongation and low growth obtained here can have durable stretch jeans with high body movement comfort and long-lasting shape retention.

摘要

棉包氨纶包芯纱因其舒适的拉伸和回复性能而被广泛用于生产弹力牛仔布,但在长时间或反复受力下会出现不理想的织物伸长问题。为减少该问题,一种额外的半弹性复丝与氨纶芯相结合,称为双芯纱。在此,旨在生产具有高弹性且低起拱的精心设计的双芯纱。在一家纺纱厂以工业规模生产了20种具有不同氨纶和T400张力牵伸组合的棉包氨纶/T400复丝双芯纱。对纱线的结构参数、拉伸性能和循环加载下的弹性回复行为进行了深入研究。对于氨纶/T400牵伸的最佳组合,双芯纱获得了优异的强度和伸长率,且条干均匀度、疵点和毛羽值显著较低。更重要的是,循环加载研究结果明确显示塑性变形和应力衰减显著降低,表明纱线变形后伸长率低且回弹性高。此处获得的具有高强度、高伸长率和低伸长率的双芯纱可用于制作具有高身体运动舒适度和持久形状保持性的耐用弹力牛仔裤。

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