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太阳辐射对角质层水合作用的影响:第一部分,皮肤表面脂质的保护作用。

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids.

机构信息

Lip(Sys)2, Chimie Analytique Pharmaceutique (EA4041 Groupe de Chimie Analytique de Paris-Saclay), Université Paris-Sud, Université Paris-Saclay, Orsay, France.

Pierre Fabre Dermo-cosmétique, Centre R&D Pierre Fabre, Toulouse, France.

出版信息

J Biophotonics. 2023 Aug;16(8):e202300055. doi: 10.1002/jbio.202300055. Epub 2023 May 1.

Abstract

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

摘要

本研究使用拉曼光谱开发了一种新方法来评估太阳辐射对角质层 (SC) 的影响。该方法通过计算 vOH/vCH 比值来测量 SC 的水合和去水动力学,以监测干燥过程中的相对含水量。该研究还研究了皮肤表面脂质 (SSLs) 在保护 SC 免受太阳辐射方面的作用。SSLs 膜是游离脂肪酸、甘油三酯、蜡酯、角鲨烯、游离和酯化胆固醇的复杂混合物,在皮肤屏障功能中起着至关重要的作用。结果表明,太阳辐射会改变 SC 内的水分含量和平衡,SSLs 通过充当光吸收剂来吸收部分太阳光线的能量,从而起到保护作用。这一点通过高温气相色谱法与质谱联用分析得到证实,该分析表明在辐照 SSLs 后特定脂质的含量会减少。

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