Copernicus Institute of Sustainable Development, Utrecht University, 3584 CB Utrecht, The Netherlands.
Institute for Biodiversity and Ecosystem Dynamics, University of Amsterdam, PO Box 94240, 1090 GE Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Environ Sci Process Impacts. 2023 Jun 21;25(6):1067-1081. doi: 10.1039/d3em00025g.
Measures are needed to protect water sources from substances that are mobile, persistent and toxic (PMT) or very persistent and very mobile (vPvM). PMT/vPvM substances are used in a diverse range of applications, including consumer products. The combined application of the essential-use and functional substitution concepts has been proposed to phase out substances of concern and support the transition to safer and more sustainable chemicals, a key goal of the European Commission's Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability. Here, we first identified the market share of PMT/vPvM containing cosmetic products. We found that 6.4% of cosmetic products available on the European market contain PMT or vPvM substances. PMT/vPvM substances were most often found in hair care products. Based on their high occurrence, the substances Allura red (CAS 25956-17-6), benzophenone-4 (CAS 4065-45-6) and climbazole (CAS 38083-17-9) were selected as case-studies for assessment of their functionality, availability of safer alternatives and essentiality. Following the functional substitution framework, we found that the technical function of Allura red was not necessary for the performance of some cosmetic products, making the use non-essential. For other applications of Allura red, as well as all applications of benzophenone-4 and climbazole, the technical function of the chemical was considered necessary for the performance. the alternative's assessment procedure, which used experimental and data and three different multicriteria decision analysis (MCDA) strategies, safer alternatives were identified for all case-study chemicals. All assessed uses of PMT/vPvM substances were thus deemed non-essential and should consequently be phased out.
需要采取措施保护水源免受可移动、持久性和毒性（PMT）或高持久性和高移动性（vPvM）物质的污染。PMT/vPvM 物质被广泛应用于各种领域，包括消费品。建议综合运用必要用途和功能替代概念，逐步淘汰受关注物质，支持向更安全、更可持续的化学品转型，这也是欧盟委员会《化学品可持续发展战略》的主要目标之一。在此，我们首先确定了含有 PMT/vPvM 物质的化妆品的市场份额。我们发现，6.4%的欧洲市场上的化妆品含有 PMT 或 vPvM 物质。PMT/vPvM 物质最常出现在护发产品中。基于其高出现率，我们选择了苋菜红（CAS 25956-17-6）、二苯甲酮-4（CAS 4065-45-6）和克霉唑（CAS 38083-17-9）作为案例研究，以评估其功能、更安全替代品的可用性和必要性。根据功能替代框架，我们发现苋菜红的技术功能对于某些化妆品的性能并非必要，因此其使用是非必要的。对于苋菜红的其他用途，以及二苯甲酮-4 和克霉唑的所有用途，化学物质的技术功能被认为是性能所必需的。对于所有案例研究的化学品，我们都使用实验数据和三种不同的多标准决策分析（MCDA）策略对替代物进行了评估，确定了更安全的替代品。因此，所有评估用途的 PMT/vPvM 物质都被认为是非必要的，应逐步淘汰。
