Is natural better? An ecotoxicity study of anthraquinone dyes.

The concept of sustainability has gained prominence in recent years, enhancing the need to develop products that are less harmful to the environment. Dyes are used by various industrial sectors and have a lot of market value; they are used on a large scale mainly by the textile industry that uses large volumes of water and is one of the main contributors to the contamination of water bodies. Some natural compounds, especially anthraquinones are re-emerging as possible alternatives to synthetic dyes, some of which are known for their toxic and/or mutagenic effects. The BioColour project (https://biocolour.fi/) which is interested in promoting the development of new alternative molecules to synthetic dyes, provided us highly purified anthraquinone dyes dermocybin and dermorubin (>98% purity) extracted from a specie of fungus Cortinarius sanguineus. Dyes were tested for their acute and chronic toxicity using different aquatic organisms. Dermorubin was not toxic to any of the organisms tested for the highest test concentration of 1 mg L and it was the most promising dye. Dermocybin was toxic to Daphnia similis (EC = 0.51 mg L), Ceriodaphnia dubia (IC = 0.13 mg L) and Danio rerio embryos (extrapolated LC = 2.44 mg L). A safety limit, i.e, predicted no-effect concentration (PNEC) of 0.0026 mg L was derived based on the toxicity of dermocybin. The PNEC value can be used to provide hazard information for future application in commercial dyeing processes. Then, we compared the toxicity of dermocybin and dermorubin with ecotoxicity data available in the literature on other anthraquinone dyes of natural and synthetic origin. Some natural dyes can be as toxic as synthetic ones, or more toxic when chronic effects are considered. Despite natural dyes being used since centuries past, there are few ecotoxicological studies available. This study is designed to help develop a more comprehensive understanding of their toxicological properties.