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痛苦的无知?性别和训练目标对攀岩损伤的影响

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing.

作者信息

Grønhaug Gudmund, Saeterbakken Atle, Casucci Tallie

机构信息

Department of Sport, Food and Natural Sciences, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences Faculty of Teacher Education and Sport, Sogndal, Norway.

The University of Utah, Salt Lake City, Utah, USA.

出版信息

BMJ Open Sport Exerc Med. 2024 Jul 29;10(3):e001972. doi: 10.1136/bmjsem-2024-001972. eCollection 2024.

DOI:10.1136/bmjsem-2024-001972
PMID:39081465
原文链接:https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11288151/
Abstract

INTRODUCTION

Climbing has evolved from an obscure outdoor sport to a predominantly indoor sport with the rise of mainstream climbing on artificial walls. Reported climbing-related injuries were predominantly chronic and may be avoided with proper planning of training. All climbers, regardless of age and gender, are training on the same routes and perform similar movements; however, few studies have investigated gender-specific injuries in climbing.

OBJECTIVES

Assess the distribution of chronic climbing injuries in an international population with gender-specific analyses and assess the impact of the person's training focus or aim of training on those injuries.

METHODS

A cross-sectional survey using a web-based item-driven questionnaire was created and promoted using social media and several climbing media stakeholders. All climbers engaged in either sport climbing, bouldering or traditional climbing were included.

RESULTS

The survey received 1513 responses (877 men, 427 women and 9 not reporting gender), of which 50.3% (n=665; 51.4% men and 48.0% women) had experienced an injury in the past 12 months. There were significant differences in injuries in feet/ankle (p=0.014), neck (p=0.03), head (p=0.0001), shoulder (p=0.001), elbow (p=0.021) and fingers (p=0.003).

CONCLUSION

Over 50% of the climbers experienced an injury in the past 12 months. The most common injuries were to the shoulders (women) and fingers (men). There were significant differences between the genders regarding injury site and prevalence. The gender differences may be affected by the aim for training and the style of climbing.

摘要

引言

随着主流攀岩运动在人工岩壁上的兴起,攀岩已从一项鲜为人知的户外运动发展成为一项以室内运动为主的项目。据报道,与攀岩相关的损伤主要为慢性损伤,通过合理规划训练或许可以避免。所有攀岩者,无论年龄和性别,都在相同的路线上训练并进行相似的动作;然而,很少有研究调查攀岩中特定性别的损伤情况。

目的

通过针对性别的分析评估国际攀岩人群中慢性攀岩损伤的分布情况,并评估个人的训练重点或训练目标对这些损伤的影响。

方法

创建了一项基于网络的项目驱动问卷调查,并通过社交媒体和多个攀岩媒体利益相关者进行推广。纳入所有从事竞技攀岩、抱石或传统攀岩的攀岩者。

结果

该调查共收到1513份回复(877名男性、427名女性和9名未报告性别的受访者),其中50.3%(n = 665;男性占51.4%,女性占48.0%)在过去12个月内受过伤。足部/脚踝(p = 0.014)、颈部(p = 0.03)、头部(p = 0.0001)、肩部(p = 0.001)、肘部(p = 0.021)和手指(p = 0.003)的损伤存在显著差异。

结论

超过50%的攀岩者在过去12个月内受过伤。最常见的损伤部位是肩部(女性)和手指(男性)。损伤部位和患病率在性别之间存在显著差异。性别差异可能受训练目标和攀岩风格的影响。

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Sports Med Open. 2024 Jan 19;10(1):10. doi: 10.1186/s40798-024-00677-w.
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Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review.成年攀岩者过度使用损伤的风险因素及预防策略:一项系统综述
Front Sports Act Living. 2023 Dec 12;5:1269870. doi: 10.3389/fspor.2023.1269870. eCollection 2023.
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A Finger in the Game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury.手指的作用:专项手指力量训练与运动损伤的发生。
Wilderness Environ Med. 2023 Dec;34(4):435-441. doi: 10.1016/j.wem.2023.06.004. Epub 2023 Aug 5.
4
Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers.登上领奖台之巅,代价几何?国际女子精英攀岩运动员的伤病情况
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