DSM-Firmenich, R&D Personal Care, Kaiseraugst, Switzerland.
AVR Consulting, Northwich, UK.
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024 Aug;46(4):544-552. doi: 10.1111/ics.12968.
Lecithin:retinol acyltransferase (LRAT) is the main enzyme catalysing the esterification of retinol to retinyl esters and, hence, is of central importance for retinol homeostasis. As retinol, by its metabolite retinoic acid, stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen fibres and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes, the inhibition of LRAT presents an intriguing strategy for anti-ageing ingredients by increasing the available retinol in the skin. Here, we synthesized several derivatives mimicking natural lecithin substrates as potential LRAT inhibitors. By exploring various chemical modifications of the core scaffold consisting of a central amino acid and an N-terminal acylsulfone, we explored 10 different compounds in a biochemical assay, resulting in two compounds with IC values of 21.1 and 32.7 μM (compounds 1 and 2), along with a simpler arginine derivative with comparative inhibitory potency. Supported by computational methods, we investigated their structure-activity relationship, resulting in the identification of several structural features associated with high inhibition of LRAT. Ultimately, we conducted an ex vivo study with human skin, demonstrating an increase of collagen III associated with a reduction of the skin ageing process. In conclusion, the reported compounds offer a promising approach to boost retinol abundance in human skin and might present a new generation of anti-ageing ingredients for cosmetic application.
视黄醇酰基转移酶 (LRAT) 是催化视黄醇酯化生成视黄醇酯的主要酶,因此对视黄醇的动态平衡至关重要。由于视黄醇及其代谢产物视黄酸刺激成纤维细胞合成胶原纤维并抑制胶原降解酶,因此抑制 LRAT 为通过增加皮肤中可用的视黄醇来提供一种有趣的抗衰老成分策略。在这里,我们合成了几种模拟天然卵磷脂底物的衍生物,作为潜在的 LRAT 抑制剂。通过探索由中心氨基酸和 N 端酰基砜组成的核心支架的各种化学修饰,我们在生化测定中探索了 10 种不同的化合物,得到了两种 IC 值为 21.1 和 32.7 μM 的化合物(化合物 1 和 2),以及一种具有可比性的抑制效力的更简单的精氨酸衍生物。通过计算方法的支持,我们研究了它们的构效关系,确定了与 LRAT 高度抑制相关的几个结构特征。最终,我们对人体皮肤进行了离体研究,证明了与皮肤老化过程减少相关的胶原蛋白 III 的增加。总之,所报道的化合物为提高人体皮肤中视黄醇的含量提供了一种很有前途的方法,并且可能为化妆品应用提供新一代的抗衰老成分。