Krzyżostan Monika, Wawrzyńczak Agata, Nowak Izabela
Faculty of Chemistry, Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, Uniwersytetu Poznańskiego 8, 61-614 Poznań, Poland.
Dr Koziej Instytut Badań Kosmetyków, Czerniakowska 58, 00-717 Warsaw, Poland.
Molecules. 2024 Nov 26;29(23):5583. doi: 10.3390/molecules29235583.
L. extract is a promising natural agent for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. It significantly reduces inflammation due to its immunomodulatory properties, mainly attributed to the presence of pentacyclic triterpenes, namely madecassoside and asiaticoside. Their incorporation into sustainable cold-processed topical formulations, such as emollient-rich emulsions and cosmetic gel containing natural hydrophilic polymers, should inhibit inflammation in atopic skin. Therefore, the objective of this study is to investigate the controlled release of madecassoside and asiaticoside isolated from L., loaded into topical formulations, namely emollient-rich O/W and W/O emulsions and cosmetic gel, which could support the treatment of atopic dermatitis. The carriers of active substances have been prepared with sustainable emulsifiers, active substances, and emollients obtained by green technologies from food industry wastes. Low-energy methods during the carrier emulsification process were applied to reduce carbon footprints and preserve the valuable properties of the raw materials used. The influence of the L. extract on the physicochemical properties of the formulations was studied, showing a satisfactory degree of stability of the formulations obtained. Moreover, factors that may influence the mechanism and kinetics of the release of madecassoside and asiaticoside, such as the concentration of the active substance, the pH of the dissolution medium, and the type of the carrier, have been tested and widely discussed.
L.提取物是一种有前景的用于治疗特应性皮炎的天然药物。由于其免疫调节特性，它能显著减轻炎症，这主要归因于五环三萜类化合物的存在，即羟基积雪草苷和积雪草苷。将它们纳入可持续的冷加工局部用制剂中，如富含润肤剂的乳液和含有天然亲水性聚合物的美容凝胶，应该能抑制特应性皮肤的炎症。因此，本研究的目的是研究从L.中分离出的羟基积雪草苷和积雪草苷在局部用制剂（即富含润肤剂的O/W和W/O乳液以及美容凝胶）中的控释情况，这可能有助于特应性皮炎的治疗。活性物质的载体是用可持续乳化剂、活性物质和通过绿色技术从食品工业废料中获得的润肤剂制备的。在载体乳化过程中采用低能量方法以减少碳足迹并保留所用原材料的宝贵特性。研究了L.提取物对制剂物理化学性质的影响，结果表明所获得的制剂具有令人满意的稳定性。此外，还测试并广泛讨论了可能影响羟基积雪草苷和积雪草苷释放机制和动力学的因素，如活性物质的浓度、溶解介质的pH值和载体类型。
