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亚马逊水果皮基亚残留物的评估(作为防晒和化妆品配方的可持续成分)。

Evaluation of Residues of Amazonian Fruit Piquia ( as Sustainable Ingredient for Sunscreen and Cosmetic Formulations.

作者信息

de Souza Izadora, Grimmelprez Gabriella C P, Yamaguchi Klenicy K L, Schleusener Johannes, Lohan Silke B, Meinke Martina C, Gaspar Lorena R

机构信息

School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Av. do Café, s/n, Vila Monte Alegre, Ribeirao Preto 14040-900, SP, Brazil.

Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Allergology, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Corporate Member of Freie Universität Berlin and Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin, Charitéplatz 1, 10117 Berlin, Germany.

出版信息

Antioxidants (Basel). 2025 Jan 21;14(2):122. doi: 10.3390/antiox14020122.

Abstract

Amazonian fruit residues like piquia shells are often discarded despite their antioxidant potential for sustainable cosmetic use. This study evaluated the photostability, phototoxicity, and photoprotection of hydroalcoholic piquia shell extract (PqSE) combined with UV filters in solutions and cosmetic formulations. PqSE formulations were photostable, even stabilizing photounstable UV filters. Phototoxicity tests (OECD TG 432) showed no phototoxic potential (MPE < 0.15) and reduction in the phototoxic potential of UV filters, while ocular irritation potential via HET-CAM assay indicated no irritant effects. The extract combined with UV filters enhanced protection against UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, achieving 60.9% effectiveness, outperforming commercial photostabilizers. Against UVB radiation, it showed cellular viability above 80%, comparable to benzophenone-3. PqSE formulations exhibited a radical protection factor (RPF) nine times higher than controls and reduced radical production by 64% after visible/near-infrared (VIS/NIR) irradiation on porcine skin, compared to 38% for controls. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy showed penetration depths below 12 µm for all time points. This study highlights the potential of reusing fruit residues like PqSE as sustainable, effective ingredients in sunscreen formulations, offering enhanced photoprotection and reduced environmental waste.

摘要

像皮基亚果壳这样的亚马逊水果残渣尽管具有用于可持续化妆品的抗氧化潜力,但往往被丢弃。本研究评估了水醇性皮基亚果壳提取物(PqSE)与紫外线过滤剂在溶液和化妆品配方中的光稳定性、光毒性和光保护作用。PqSE配方具有光稳定性,甚至能稳定光不稳定的紫外线过滤剂。光毒性测试(经合组织TG 432)显示无光毒性潜力(MPE < 0.15),且紫外线过滤剂的光毒性潜力降低,而通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验评估的眼刺激潜力表明无刺激作用。该提取物与紫外线过滤剂结合可增强对紫外线A诱导的活性氧(ROS)产生的防护作用,有效性达60.9%,优于市售光稳定剂。对于紫外线B辐射,其细胞活力高于80%,与二苯甲酮-3相当。PqSE配方的自由基保护因子(RPF)比对照组高九倍,在猪皮肤上进行可见/近红外(VIS/NIR)照射后,自由基产生量比对照组减少64%,而对照组为38%。共聚焦拉曼显微光谱显示所有时间点的渗透深度均低于12 µm。本研究突出了将像PqSE这样的水果残渣作为可持续、有效的成分用于防晒配方的潜力,可提供增强的光保护作用并减少环境废弃物。

https://cdn.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/blobs/e9f6/11852122/78fc0c5b72ca/antioxidants-14-00122-g001.jpg

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