Faculdade de Ciências Farmacêuticas de Ribeirão Preto, Universidade de São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, SP, Brazil.
Photochem Photobiol. 2021 Jul;97(4):700-709. doi: 10.1111/php.13407. Epub 2021 Mar 8.
A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.
化妆品和皮肤科产品面临的一个挑战是,基于新化合物开发具有更高性能和更高安全性的新型抗衰老产品,以增强视黄醇棕榈酸酯与宽谱紫外线滤光剂的稳定性。因此,本工作的目的是评估三种常用的丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷(阿伏苯宗)光稳定剂——乙基己基甲氧基肉桂酸酯(EHMC)、三(四甲基羟基哌啶醇)柠檬酸酯(TTMHP)和三(联苯)三嗪(TBPT)对阿伏苯宗(AVO)、辛基甲氧基肉桂酸酯(OMC)和视黄醇棕榈酸酯(RP)组合的光稳定性和光毒性的影响。通过将制剂暴露于 UVA 辐射来进行光稳定性研究。通过 3T3 中性红摄取光毒性测定法(OECD TG 432)评估光毒性。在制剂中添加 EHMCR、TBPT 和 TTMHP,有/无 RP,可提高 AVO 和 RP 的光稳定性,但 EHMCR 对 RP 的稳定效果最佳。在光毒性测定中,含有或不含有 RP 的 AVO-OMC 组合显示出潜在的光毒性。EHMCR 和 TTMHP 降低了 AVO-OMC 组合的光毒性,而 EHMCR 还降低了含有 RP 的组合的光毒性。因此,EHMCR 可用于稳定含有或不含有 RP 的 AVO-OMC 制剂,而 TTMHP 可添加到这种光不稳定的紫外线滤光剂组合中。