Qin Chong, Zhang Liu, Zhang Ruiqi, Wang Bo, Zhang Qin, Bian Yannan, Liu Wenying, He Li, Wang Feifei
Yunnan Characteristic Plant Extraction Laboratory, Yunnan Yunke Characteristic Plant Extraction Laboratory Co., Ltd., Kunming, Yunnan, China.
Shanghai Jiyan Biomedical Development Co., Ltd., Shanghai, China.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 May;24(5):e70204. doi: 10.1111/jocd.70204.
Skin radiance represents both healthy and esthetic aspects of human skin, usually influenced by a compromised barrier and the aging process. The reduction of the stratum corneum by chemical peels is a prevalent procedure employed to enhance facial radiance, but peeling is not suitable for compromised skin.
Prinsepia utilis Royle polysaccharides (PURP) is a natural extract with repairing properties, which has been reported as a barrier repairing agent. ESETRILLQ (EQ) peptide has been recently reported as a novel antiaging bioactive peptide. This study aims to investigate the combined efficacy of these two ingredients on skin radiance enhancement.
Reconstructed human full-thickness skin models were subjected to UVA exposure, followed by treatment with 1000 ppm PURP, 20 ppm EQ9, and their combinations: PUR9-1 (1000 ppm PURP + 10 ppm EQ9) and PUR9-2 (1000 ppm PURP + 20 ppm EQ9). Transcriptomic profiling was performed as a preliminary study to define the synergistic effect. RT-qPCR was performed assessing the regulation of skin barrier-related genes. Thirty-three Chinese sensitive skin individuals were enrolled in a placebo-controlled split-face clinical research for 2 weeks to evaluate a PUR9-2 containing lotion. Instrument measurement and expert evaluation were conducted to evaluate the parameters of glossiness and skin tone at baseline, Day 7, and Day 14. Skin glossiness was determined by VISIA 7, Glossymeter, and Translucency Meter. TEWL was determined by Tewameter Hex. Wrinkel number and area were obtained by VISIA 7.
Transcriptomic profiling identified PUR9-2 to regulate significantly different genes distinct from PURP and EQ9. The combination increased the gene expression levels of TNFAIP3 and CRNN. PUR9-2 also increased the expression of FLG, LOR, and DSG1on UVA-irradiated skin model. PUR9-2 containing lotion significantly decreased TEWL by 16.96%. Clinical evaluations demonstrated a statistically significant 22.32% (Glossymeter) and 35.56% (VISIA 7) improvement in skin glossiness on the PUR9-2 lotion-treated side by Day 14 compared to baseline. Translucency demonstrated a statistically significant 13.06% increase of K value, which all aligned with the expert evaluation of skin radiance enhancement.
PCA analysis revealed PUR9-2 uniquely modulated gene expression compared to PURP and EQ9. Functional enrichment analysis based on Gene Ontology (GO) demonstrated PUR9-2 restored UVA-suppressed TNFAIP3 and CRNN gene. The results of RT-PCR also indicated that PUR9-2 enhanced skin barrier integrity in 3D models via upregulated expression of FLG, LOR, and DSG1. The Chou-Talalay method further validated PUR9-2's synergistic potency (CI < 1) in accelerating keratinocyte scratch wound closure. The clinical research demonstrated protective effects of PUR9-2 on compromised skin barrier and enhanced both glossiness of the sensitive skin surface and translucency within the skin structure. This study provides a potential solution for improving the radiance and overall conditions of compromised skin.
皮肤光泽代表了人体皮肤的健康和美学方面，通常受受损屏障和衰老过程的影响。化学换肤减少角质层是一种用于增强面部光泽的常见方法，但换肤不适用于受损皮肤。
扁核木多糖（PURP）是一种具有修复特性的天然提取物，已被报道为一种屏障修复剂。ESETRILLQ（EQ）肽最近被报道为一种新型抗衰生活性肽。本研究旨在探讨这两种成分对增强皮肤光泽的联合功效。
对重建的人全层皮肤模型进行紫外线A（UVA）照射，然后用1000 ppm的PURP、20 ppm的EQ9及其组合进行处理：PUR9-1（1000 ppm PURP + 10 ppm EQ9）和PUR9-2（1000 ppm PURP + 20 ppm EQ9）。进行转录组分析作为初步研究以确定协同作用。进行逆转录定量聚合酶链反应（RT-qPCR）以评估皮肤屏障相关基因的调控。33名中国敏感性皮肤个体参加了一项为期2周的安慰剂对照半脸临床研究，以评估一种含PUR9-2的乳液。在基线、第7天和第14天进行仪器测量和专家评估，以评估光泽度和肤色参数。皮肤光泽度通过VISIA 7、光泽度仪和透明度仪测定。经皮水分流失（TEWL）通过Tewameter Hex测定。皱纹数量和面积通过VISIA 7获得。
转录组分析确定PUR9-2调节与PURP和EQ9不同的显著不同基因。该组合增加了肿瘤坏死因子α诱导蛋白3（TNFAIP3）和角蛋白相关神经丝蛋白（CRNN）的基因表达水平。PURD-2还增加了紫外线A照射皮肤模型中丝聚蛋白（FLG）、兜甲蛋白（LOR）和桥粒芯糖蛋白1（DSG1）的表达。含PUR9-2的乳液使TEWL显著降低了16.96%。临床评估表明，与基线相比，到第14天，PUR9-2乳液处理侧的皮肤光泽度在光泽度仪测量中改善了22.32%，在VISIA 7测量中改善了35.56%，具有统计学意义。透明度显示K值有统计学意义的13.06%的增加，这与专家对皮肤光泽增强的评估一致。
主成分分析（PCA）显示，与PURP和EQ9相比，PUR9-2独特地调节基因表达。基于基因本体论（GO）的功能富集分析表明，PUR9-2恢复了紫外线A抑制的TNFAIP3和CRNN基因。RT-PCR结果还表明，PUR9-2通过上调FLG、LOR和DSG1的表达增强了三维模型中的皮肤屏障完整性。Chou-Talalay方法进一步验证了PUR9-2在加速角质形成细胞划痕伤口闭合方面的协同效力（协同指数<1）。临床研究证明了PUR9-2对受损皮肤屏障的保护作用，并增强了敏感性皮肤表面的光泽度和皮肤结构内的透明度。本研究为改善受损皮肤的光泽度和整体状况提供了一种潜在的解决方案。
