Bao Mengjing, Gempeler Mathias, Campiche Remo
DSM-Firmenich, Wurmisweg 576, 4303 Kaiseraugst, Switzerland.
Int J Mol Sci. 2025 Sep 4;26(17):8630. doi: 10.3390/ijms26178630.
Achieving even skin tone and controlling pigmentation are key goals in dermocosmetics, given the impact of disorders like melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and age spots. The process of pigmentation begins with melanin synthesis within melanosomes, specialized organelles in melanocytes. Once produced, melanin is transferred to neighboring keratinocytes, where it forms protective caps over cell nuclei before undergoing eventual degradation. Disruptions at any stage of this complex process, whether in melanin production, melanosome transport, or post-transfer processing, can lead to visible pigmentation irregularities. While traditional treatments primarily focus on inhibiting melanin production (e.g., through tyrosinase inhibitors), emerging research highlights the important role of melanosome transport and keratinocyte-mediated processing in determining visible pigmentation. This review focuses on the underexplored stages of melanosome transport, transfer, and keratinocyte-mediated processing as promising targets for therapeutic and cosmetic strategies in managing pigmentation disorders.
鉴于黄褐斑、炎症后色素沉着和老年斑等疾病的影响，实现均匀肤色和控制色素沉着是皮肤美容学的关键目标。色素沉着过程始于黑素小体内的黑色素合成，黑素小体是黑素细胞中的特殊细胞器。黑色素一旦产生，就会转移到邻近的角质形成细胞中，在那里它会在细胞核上形成保护帽，然后最终降解。这个复杂过程的任何阶段受到干扰，无论是在黑色素生成、黑素小体运输还是转移后处理过程中，都可能导致可见的色素沉着异常。虽然传统治疗主要侧重于抑制黑色素生成（例如通过酪氨酸酶抑制剂），但新出现的研究突出了黑素小体运输和角质形成细胞介导的处理在决定可见色素沉着方面的重要作用。本综述重点关注黑素小体运输、转移和角质形成细胞介导的处理等未被充分探索的阶段，这些阶段有望成为治疗和美容策略管理色素沉着疾病的靶点。
