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动态发胶分析。II. 聚合物、发质和溶剂组成的影响。

Dynamic hairspray analysis. II. Effect of polymer, hair type, and solvent composition.

作者信息

Jachowicz J, Yao K

机构信息

International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ 07470, USA.

出版信息

J Cosmet Sci. 2001 Sep-Oct;52(5):281-95.

PMID:11567208
Abstract

A texture analyzer was employed to study the properties of hairspray resins by measuring a number of mechanical parameters of hair modified by them. Hairset stiffness, stiffness retention at high humidity, and duration and magnitude of polymer film tackiness during drying were the properties employed to characterize fixative-treated hair. They were investigated for formulations containing ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, and polymer blends such as poly(methylvinylether) (PMVE) - ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer. It was demonstrated that the properties of hair treated with a fixative are affected by the concentration and molecular weight of a polymer, low-molecularweight additives that can modify the mechanical, surface, or interfacial properties of a polymer film, and the presence of water in the formulation. It was also shown, that the type of hair employed, such as virgin, untreated hair or hair damaged by bleaching, can also have an effect on the performance of a given hairspray formulation. For compositions based on blends of PMVE and ethyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, the employed method demonstrated the sensitivity of the properties of polymer blends to the presence of a hydrophilic component such as PMVE.

摘要

使用质地分析仪通过测量经头发定型产品改性后的头发的一些机械参数来研究头发定型产品树脂的性能。头发定型硬度、高湿度下的硬度保持率以及干燥过程中聚合物薄膜粘性的持续时间和大小是用于表征经固定剂处理头发的性能。对含有PVM/MA共聚物乙酯、PVM/MA共聚物丁酯、乙烯基己内酰胺/PVP/甲基丙烯酸二甲氨基乙酯共聚物、VA/马来酸丁酯/异冰片基丙烯酸酯共聚物以及聚合物共混物(如聚(甲基乙烯基醚)(PMVE)-PVM/MA共聚物乙酯)的配方进行了研究。结果表明,用固定剂处理过的头发的性能受聚合物的浓度和分子量、可改变聚合物薄膜机械、表面或界面性能的低分子量添加剂以及配方中水分的影响。还表明,所用头发的类型,如原生未处理头发或经漂白受损的头发,也会对给定头发定型产品配方的性能产生影响。对于基于PMVE和PVM/MA共聚物乙酯共混物的组合物,所采用的方法证明了聚合物共混物的性能对亲水性组分(如PMVE)的存在的敏感性。

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