McMullen R, Jachowicz J
International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ 07470, USA.
J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Jul-Aug;54(4):335-51.
Image analysis has been employed to measure the luster of hair simulated by light reflected from a curved hair tress. Hair samples (up to four) were mounted side-by-side in a special sample holder in the form of a cylinder and illuminated by a uniform beam of white light. Digital images of hair tresses were captured with a high-resolution camera and were analyzed by scanning across highlighted and dark areas of the resultant image using image analysis software with developed macros. Plots, similar to goniophotometric scattering curves, were used to calculate luster values according to previously published work by Nickerson, Stamm, and Reich-Robbins. Both the Stamm and Reich-Robbins approaches were found to give similar results, while the Nickerson gloss parameter exhibited less sensitivity to hair modification with cosmetic ingredients. The procedure was employed to assess the luster of natural white, light blonde, light brown, medium brown, and dark brown hair, and revealed an increase in luster indices in proportion to an increase in fiber pigmentation. Cosmetic oils such as phenyl trimethicone, amodimethicone, and castor oil were also found to increase the luster of hair as a result of the change in contrast between specular and diffuse reflection. Styling resins such as butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, vinyl caprolactam/PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, and isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer were shown to increase hair gloss by a similar mechanism, as evidenced by calculated higher values of the Stamm and Reich-Robbins luster parameters. An effect of hair dulling by deposition of micronized ZnO at various concentrations, as well as by synthetic sebum, is also discussed.
图像分析已被用于测量由弯曲发束反射的光模拟的头发光泽。头发样本（最多四个）并排安装在圆柱形的特殊样本架中，并用均匀的白光束照射。用高分辨率相机拍摄发束的数字图像，并使用带有已开发宏的图像分析软件扫描所得图像的高光和暗区进行分析。根据尼克森、斯坦姆和赖克 - 罗宾斯之前发表的工作，使用类似于测角光度散射曲线的图表来计算光泽值。发现斯坦姆和赖克 - 罗宾斯的方法给出的结果相似，而尼克森光泽参数对用化妆品成分改变头发的敏感度较低。该程序用于评估天然白色、浅金色、浅棕色、中棕色和深棕色头发的光泽，结果表明光泽指数随着纤维色素沉着的增加而增加。还发现诸如苯基三甲基硅氧烷、氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷和蓖麻油等化妆品油由于镜面反射和漫反射之间对比度的变化而增加头发的光泽。诸如PVM / MA共聚物丁酯、乙烯基己内酰胺/ PVP /甲基丙烯酸二甲氨基乙酯共聚物和异丁烯/乙基马来酰亚胺/羟乙基马来酰亚胺共聚物等造型树脂通过类似机制增加头发光泽，斯坦姆和赖克 - 罗宾斯光泽参数的计算值更高证明了这一点。还讨论了不同浓度的微粉化氧化锌以及合成皮脂沉积对头发暗淡的影响。
