Carlotti M E, Rossatto V, Gallarate M, Trotta M, Debernardi F
Dipartimento di Scienza e Tecnologia del Farmaco, Universita degli Studi di Torino, 10125 Turin, Italy.
J Cosmet Sci. 2004 May-Jun;55(3):233-52.
Vitamin A palmitate photostability in relation to UVA and UVB was tested in hydroxy ethyl cellulose hydrogels at pH 4.0, 5.6, 7.0, and 8.0, alone and with the addition of sunscreens (3,4-methylbenzilidencamphor or butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane) or an antioxidant (butylated hydroxy toluene). The photostability of vitamin A palmitate was also tested in encapsulated systems (Tagravit A1 microcapsules, Lipotec liposomes, phosphatidylcholine liposomes, and Lipotec nanocapsules) dispersed in gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0. The stability of retinyl palmitate over time in hydroxy ethyl cellulose hydrogels at pH 5.6 and 7.0 (stored one month at 25 degrees C or 40 degrees C), alone or with butylated hydroxy toluene, was also tested. The stability of retinyl palmitate over time in encapsulated systems, dispersed in gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0, was also studied. O/W emulsions were also prepared to compare the stability of vitamin A palmitate introduced in a lipophilic/hydrophilic medium (O/W emulsions) and a hydrophilic medium (hydrogels). HPLC analysis showed that encapsulated systems such as Lipotec nanocapsules, Tagravit A1 microcapsules, phosphatidylcholine liposomes, and Lipotec liposomes protect the vitamin A ester over time from hydrolysis and from oxidation to retinaldeide and retinoic acid, and that Lipotec nanocapsules and phosphatidylcholine liposomes also improve the vitamin's photostability. A change in pH (from 5.6 to 7.0) of the gels did not influence the vitamin ester's stability. pH levels of 4.0 and 8.0 determined a decrease in the stability of retinyl palmitate in the gels. A high concentration of sunscreens improved the photostability of retinyl palmitate in the gels at pH 5.6 and 7.0. Butylated hydroxy toluene protected retinyl palmitate from degradation induced by light at all the pH levels studied and by heat at pH 5.6 and 7.0, as can be seen from the study of the photostability of vitamin A palmitate under UVB and UVA and of stability over time. Rheological studies showed a slight decrease in the viscosity of the gels after UVB-UVA irradiation and a higher decrease in the viscosity of the gels and the emulsions after storage at 25 degrees C and 40 degrees C. This decrease can be attributed to a partial degradation of hydroxy ethyl cellulose and of emulsifier, as can be seen from the decrease in shear stress versus shear rate values under these conditions of storage, denoting a depolymerization of the rheological modifier.
在pH值为4.0、5.6、7.0和8.0的羟乙基纤维素水凝胶中,单独以及添加防晒剂(3,4-甲基亚苄基樟脑或丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷)或抗氧化剂(丁基化羟基甲苯)的情况下,测试了棕榈酸视黄酯相对于UVA和UVB的光稳定性。还在分散于pH值为5.6和7.0的凝胶中的包封系统(Tagravit A1微胶囊、Lipotec脂质体、磷脂酰胆碱脂质体和Lipotec纳米胶囊)中测试了棕榈酸视黄酯的光稳定性。还测试了在pH值为5.6和7.0的羟乙基纤维素水凝胶中,棕榈酸视黄酯随时间的稳定性(在25℃或40℃下储存一个月),单独或与丁基化羟基甲苯一起。还研究了在pH值为5.6和7.0的凝胶中分散的包封系统中棕榈酸视黄酯随时间的稳定性。还制备了O/W乳液,以比较引入亲脂性/亲水性介质(O/W乳液)和亲水性介质(水凝胶)中的棕榈酸视黄酯的稳定性。HPLC分析表明,Lipotec纳米胶囊、Tagravit A1微胶囊、磷脂酰胆碱脂质体和Lipotec脂质体等包封系统可长期保护维生素A酯不发生水解以及氧化为视黄醛和视黄酸,并且Lipotec纳米胶囊和磷脂酰胆碱脂质体还提高了维生素的光稳定性。凝胶pH值(从5.6变为7.0)的变化不影响维生素酯的稳定性。pH值为4.0和8.0时,凝胶中棕榈酸视黄酯的稳定性下降。高浓度的防晒剂提高了pH值为5.6和7.0的凝胶中棕榈酸视黄酯的光稳定性。从对棕榈酸视黄酯在UVB和UVA下的光稳定性以及随时间的稳定性研究可以看出,丁基化羟基甲苯在所有研究的pH值水平下都能保护棕榈酸视黄酯免受光诱导的降解,在pH值为5.6和7.0时还能免受热诱导的降解。流变学研究表明,UVB - UVA照射后凝胶的粘度略有下降,在25℃和40℃储存后凝胶和乳液的粘度下降幅度更大。这种下降可归因于羟乙基纤维素和乳化剂的部分降解,从这些储存条件下剪切应力与剪切速率值的下降可以看出,这表明流变改性剂发生了解聚。