Kim Da Jung, Jung Min Sook, Jin Hee Un, Kim Mi Sun, An Chae Eun
Skin Science Research Center, NewLife BST Co., Ltd., Seoul 08594, Republic of Korea.
Molecules. 2024 Nov 25;29(23):5571. doi: 10.3390/molecules29235571.
Melanin overexpression causes skin hyperpigmentation, which is associated with various skin disorders and cosmetic concerns. Umbelliferone, a natural coumarin found widely in plant species, has been noted for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects but has received little attention for its impact on melanogenesis. Here, the effects of umbelliferone on melanogenesis were investigated in vitro and in clinical studies. The results showed that umbelliferone was non-cytotoxic to human skin and B16F10 melanoma cells. It also exhibited significant anti-melanogenic effects, reducing both melanin production and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. This effect was achieved through a decrease in tyrosinase mRNA levels. Furthermore, umbelliferone in a formulation was stable under different temperature conditions, and after four weeks of topical application, it significantly decreased the melanin index and increased skin lightness (L*) values compared to those at the baseline. Overall, these findings demonstrate the potential of umbelliferone as a promising skin-lightening agent in the cosmetics industry.
黑色素过度表达会导致皮肤色素沉着，这与各种皮肤疾病和美容问题相关。伞形酮是一种在植物物种中广泛存在的天然香豆素，其抗氧化和抗炎作用已为人所知，但其对黑色素生成的影响却很少受到关注。在此，在体外和临床研究中对伞形酮对黑色素生成的影响进行了研究。结果表明，伞形酮对人皮肤和B16F10黑色素瘤细胞无细胞毒性。它还表现出显著的抗黑色素生成作用，以剂量依赖的方式减少黑色素生成和酪氨酸酶活性。这种作用是通过降低酪氨酸酶mRNA水平实现的。此外，配方中的伞形酮在不同温度条件下稳定，局部应用四周后，与基线相比，它显著降低了黑色素指数并提高了皮肤亮度（L*）值。总体而言，这些发现证明了伞形酮作为化妆品行业中一种有前景的皮肤美白剂的潜力。
