Ferreira Ester S B, Hulme Alison N, McNab Hamish, Quye Anita
School of Chemistry, The University of Edinburgh, West Mains Road, Edinburgh, UK EH9 3JJ.
Chem Soc Rev. 2004 Jul 30;33(6):329-36. doi: 10.1039/b305697j. Epub 2004 Jul 5.
The sources and structures of dyes used to colour Western historical textiles are described in this tutorial review. Most blue and purple colours were derived from indigo--obtained either from woad or from the indigo plant--though some other sources (e.g. shellfish and lichens) were used. Reds were often anthraquinone derivatives obtained from plants or insects. Yellows were almost always flavonoid derivatives obtained from a variety of plant species. Most other colours were produced by over-dyeing--e.g. greens were obtained by over-dyeing a blue with a yellow dye. Direct analysis of dyes isolated from artefacts allows comparison with the historical record.
本教程综述介绍了用于给西方历史纺织品染色的染料来源和结构。大多数蓝色和紫色染料源自靛蓝——可从菘蓝或靛蓝植物中获取——不过也使用了一些其他来源（如贝类和地衣）。红色染料通常是从植物或昆虫中提取的蒽醌衍生物。黄色染料几乎总是从各种植物中提取的黄酮类衍生物。大多数其他颜色是通过套染产生的——例如，绿色是通过用黄色染料套染蓝色获得的。对从文物中分离出的染料进行直接分析，可以与历史记录进行比较。
