Ortonne Jean-Paul
Service de Dermatologie, Hôpital l'Archet Nice Cedex 3, France.
Dermatol Ther. 2006 Sep-Oct;19(5):280-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00085.x.
Topical retinoids such as all-trans-retinoic acid (RA), 13-cis-retinoic acid (isotretinoin), retinol, retinaldehyde, tazarotene, and adapalene have been shown to improve dyspigmentation of photodamaged skin including mottling and actinic lentigines. RA monotherapy has also been demonstrated to improve melasma and postinflammatory hypermelanosis. Furthermore, RA in combination with hydroquinone or 4-hydroxyanisole, or azelaic acid increases the potency of depigmenting agents for the treatment of melasma, actinic lentigines, and postinflammatory hypermelanosis. The basic mechanisms underlying these effects are not completely identified. Topical retinoids stimulate the cell turn-over of epidermal keratinocytes and promote a decrease in melanosome transfer and a rapid loss of melanins via epidermopoiesis. Topical retinoids are also involved in the control of cell differentiation. Retinoid-induced changes in the stratum corneum and the permeability barrier may also facilitate the penetration of depigmenting agents in the epidermis and increase their bioavailability, leading to increased depigmentation. In addition, several in vitro studies demonstrate that cis and trans-retinoic acid inhibit UV-B stimulated melanogenesis in term of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. It is likely that topical retinoids modulate epidermal melanin count via a direct action on melanocytes and epidermal keratinocytes.
外用维甲酸类药物,如全反式维甲酸(RA)、13 - 顺式维甲酸(异维甲酸)、视黄醇、视黄醛、他扎罗汀和阿达帕林,已被证明可改善光损伤皮肤的色素沉着异常,包括色斑和光化性雀斑样痣。RA单一疗法也已被证实可改善黄褐斑和炎症后色素沉着过度。此外,RA与氢醌或4 - 羟基苯甲醚或壬二酸联合使用,可增强色素沉着抑制剂治疗黄褐斑、光化性雀斑样痣和炎症后色素沉着过度的效力。这些作用的基本机制尚未完全明确。外用维甲酸类药物刺激表皮角质形成细胞的细胞更新,并通过表皮生成促进黑素小体转移减少和黑色素快速流失。外用维甲酸类药物还参与细胞分化的调控。维甲酸诱导的角质层和渗透屏障变化也可能促进色素沉着抑制剂在表皮的渗透并增加其生物利用度,从而导致色素沉着减少增加。此外,多项体外研究表明,顺式和反式维甲酸在酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素合成方面抑制UV - B刺激的黑色素生成。外用维甲酸类药物可能通过对黑素细胞和表皮角质形成细胞的直接作用来调节表皮黑素含量。