Sorg Olivier, Antille Christophe, Kaya Gürkan, Saurat Jean-Hilaire
Clinique de Dermatologie, Geneva University Hospital, Geneva, Switzerland.
Dermatol Ther. 2006 Sep-Oct;19(5):289-96. doi: 10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00086.x.
Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.
维甲酸是天然和合成的维生素A衍生物。它们是亲脂性分子，容易穿透表皮。其生物活性形式可调节参与细胞分化和增殖的基因表达。维甲酸（维甲酸）、其13 - 顺式异构体异维甲酸以及各种合成维甲酸用于治疗目的，而视黄醛、视黄醇和视黄酯，由于它们可被控制转化为维甲酸或其直接的非受体依赖性生物学作用，可用作药妆品。因此，这些天然维甲酸前体有望有助于：（i）更新表皮细胞；（ii）作为紫外线过滤器；（iii）预防氧化应激；（iv）控制皮肤细菌菌群；（v）改善皮肤老化和光老化。视黄醇和视黄酯无刺激性，但临床疗效有限。另一方面，视黄醛耐受性相当好，似乎是最有效的药妆维甲酸；它对氧化应激、皮肤细菌菌群、表皮更新和光老化具有显著疗效。
