皮肤上出现灰色黏液?纳米技术、化妆品与防晒霜安全问题。

Grey goo on the skin? Nanotechnology, cosmetic and sunscreen safety.

作者信息

Nohynek Gerhard J, Lademann Jürgen, Ribaud Christele, Roberts Michael S

机构信息

L'Oréal Research and Development, Worldwide Safety Department, Asnières, France.

出版信息

Crit Rev Toxicol. 2007 Mar;37(3):251-77. doi: 10.1080/10408440601177780.

Abstract

Many modern cosmetic or sunscreen products contain nano-sized components. Nanoemulsions are transparent and have unique tactile and texture properties; nanocapsule, nanosome, noisome, or liposome formulations contain small vesicles (range: 50 to 5000 nm) consisting of traditional cosmetic materials that protect light-or oxygen-sensitive cosmetic ingredients. Transdermal delivery and cosmetic research suggests that vesicle materials may penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) of the human skin, but not into living skin. Depending on the physical/chemical properties of the ingredient and the formulation, nano-sized formulations may enhance or reduce skin penetration, albeit at a limited rate. Modern sunscreens contain insoluble titanium dioxide (TiO(2)) or zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles (NP), which are colorless and reflect/scatter ultraviolet (UV) more efficiently than larger particles. Most available theoretical and experimental evidence suggests that insoluble NP do not penetrate into or through normal as well as compromised human skin. Oral and topical toxicity data suggest that TiO(2) and ZnO NP have low systemic toxicity and are well tolerated on the skin. In vitro cytotoxicity, genotoxicity, and photogenotoxicity studies on TiO(2) or other insoluble NP reporting uptake by cells, oxidative cell damage, or genotoxicity should be interpreted with caution, since such toxicities may be secondary to phagocytosis of mammalian cells exposed to high concentrations of insoluble particles. Caution needs to be exercised concerning topical exposure to other NP that either have characteristics enabling some skin penetration and/or have inherently toxic constituents. Studies on wear debris particles from surgical implants and other toxicity studies on insoluble particles support the traditional toxicology view that the hazard of small particles is mainly defined by the intrinsic toxicity of particles, as distinct from their particle size. There is little evidence supporting the principle that smaller particles have greater effects on the skin or other tissues or produce novel toxicities relative to micro-sized materials. Overall, the current weight of evidence suggests that nano-materials such as nano-sized vesicles or TiO(2) and ZnO nanoparticles currently used in cosmetic preparations or sunscreens pose no risk to human skin or human health, although other NP may have properties that warrant safety evaluation on a case-by-case basis before human use.

摘要

许多现代化妆品或防晒产品都含有纳米级成分。纳米乳液是透明的,具有独特的触感和质地特性;纳米胶囊、纳米体、泡囊或脂质体制剂含有由传统化妆品材料组成的小囊泡(范围:50至5000纳米),可保护对光或氧敏感的化妆品成分。经皮给药和化妆品研究表明,囊泡材料可能会穿透人体皮肤的角质层(SC),但不会进入活皮肤。根据成分和制剂的物理/化学性质,纳米级制剂可能会增强或降低皮肤渗透性,尽管速率有限。现代防晒霜含有不溶性二氧化钛(TiO₂)或氧化锌(ZnO)纳米颗粒(NP),它们是无色的,比大颗粒更有效地反射/散射紫外线(UV)。大多数现有的理论和实验证据表明,不溶性NP不会穿透正常或受损的人体皮肤。口服和局部毒性数据表明,TiO₂和ZnO NP具有低全身毒性,并且在皮肤上耐受性良好。关于TiO₂或其他不溶性NP的体外细胞毒性、遗传毒性和光遗传毒性研究报告了细胞摄取、氧化细胞损伤或遗传毒性,对此应谨慎解释,因为此类毒性可能继发于暴露于高浓度不溶性颗粒的哺乳动物细胞的吞噬作用。对于局部接触其他具有能够实现一定皮肤渗透性的特性和/或具有固有有毒成分的NP,需要谨慎对待。关于手术植入物磨损碎片颗粒的研究以及对不溶性颗粒的其他毒性研究支持了传统毒理学观点,即小颗粒的危害主要由颗粒的固有毒性定义,这与它们的粒径不同。几乎没有证据支持这样的原则,即相对于微米级材料,较小颗粒对皮肤或其他组织有更大影响或产生新的毒性。总体而言,目前的证据表明,目前用于化妆品制剂或防晒霜中的纳米材料,如纳米级囊泡或TiO₂和ZnO纳米颗粒,对人体皮肤或人类健康没有风险,尽管其他NP可能具有需要在人类使用前逐案进行安全性评估的特性。

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