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[化妆品中典型紫外线吸收剂的高效液相色谱分析]

[High performance liquid chromatographic analysis of typical ultraviolet absorbers in cosmetic products].

作者信息

Ohba M, Nakamura K, Matsuoka M

机构信息

Safety & Analytical Research Center, Shiseido Research & Development Headquarters, Yokohama, Japan.

出版信息

Yakugaku Zasshi. 1991 Sep;111(9):542-5. doi: 10.1248/yakushi1947.111.9_542.

Abstract

Typical 11 ultraviolet (UV) absorbers in cosmetic products were separated and determined by high performance liquid chromatography. The recommended conditions for the analysis were as follows: column, 4.6 mm i.d. x 250 mm, Capcell Pak C18 SG (5 microns); detector, UV spectrophotometer (280 nm); column temperature, 40 degrees C; mobile phase, H2O-CH3OH (15:85 v/v) containing 3 mM stearyltrimethyl ammonium chloride; flow rate, 1.0 ml/min. In the case of the products containing 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC) and/or 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMD), it was necessary to use H2O-1,4-dioxane (34:66 v/v) containing 6 mM stearyltrimethyl ammonium chloride as the mobile phase in order to separate OMC and BMD. Anthracene and 9,10-dimethylanthracene were used as an internal standard for the H2O-CH3OH mobile phase and the H2O-1,4-dioxane mobile phase, respectively. Calibration curves were linear within a range of 50-150 micrograms/ml for the 11 UV absorbers. Recoveries and reproducibilities of the method were satisfactory. By using this method, typical UV absorbers in several commercial cosmetic products such as lip creams, sun oils, lotions and emulsions were able to be rapidly determined without any interference.

摘要

采用高效液相色谱法对化妆品中常见的11种紫外线(UV)吸收剂进行了分离和测定。分析的推荐条件如下:色谱柱,内径4.6 mm×250 mm,Capcell Pak C18 SG(5微米);检测器,紫外分光光度计(280 nm);柱温,40℃;流动相,含3 mM硬脂基三甲基氯化铵的水-甲醇(15:85 v/v);流速,1.0 ml/min。对于含有对甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯(OMC)和/或4-叔丁基-4'-甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(BMD)的产品,为了分离OMC和BMD,必须使用含6 mM硬脂基三甲基氯化铵的水-1,4-二氧六环(34:66 v/v)作为流动相。蒽和9,10-二甲基蒽分别用作水-甲醇流动相和水-1,4-二氧六环流动相的内标。11种紫外线吸收剂的校准曲线在50-150微克/毫升范围内呈线性。该方法的回收率和重现性令人满意。使用该方法,能够快速测定几种商业化妆品如唇膏、防晒油、乳液和乳剂中的典型紫外线吸收剂,且无任何干扰。

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