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化妆品中主要对羟基苯甲酸酯经人体表皮-真皮层渗透后的评估(体外研究)

Assessment of principal parabens used in cosmetics after their passage through human epidermis-dermis layers (ex-vivo study).

作者信息

El Hussein Sawsan, Muret Patrice, Berard Michel, Makki Safwat, Humbert Philippe

机构信息

Cutaneous Engineering and Biology Laboratory (EA 3183, IFR 133), University of Franche-Comté, Besancon, France.

出版信息

Exp Dermatol. 2007 Oct;16(10):830-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2007.00625.x.

Abstract

Concern is continuously raised about the safety of parabens which are present in most of the cosmetic preparations. In this investigation, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl paraben (MP, EP, PP, BP), in a commercial cosmetic lotion, were deposited on human skin fragments, collected after surgical operations. Permeated parabens were determined after their passage through human epidermis-dermis layers, fixed on Franz diffusion cells. Bovine serum albumin (3%) was employed as receptor fluid. Then, parabens were assessed by liquid chromatography. The objective of this research was to determine the permeation of these molecules through human epidermis-dermis layers, and their possible passage to body tissues and/or accumulation in skin layers. Two groups of experiments were performed. In the first experimental group (G1), unique doses of the cosmetic were deposited on skin fragments fixed on Franz cells (n = 6), at time 0 h, followed with different withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. G1 results demonstrated that parabens penetration was influenced by their lipophilicity: more lipophilic the parabens were (BP > PP > EP > MP), less they crossed the skin layers (BP < PP < EP < MP). The second experimental group (G2) was constituted of three equal deposits on each Franz cell (n = 6) at different hour times 0, 12 and 24 h followed with three withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. The G2 results indicated that investigated parabens had significant increasing permeations in skin layers. This situation provokes the accumulation of these molecules which were considered by some authors as the cause of skin toxicities and carcinogenicity.

摘要

人们对大多数化妆品制剂中含有的对羟基苯甲酸酯类的安全性一直存在担忧。在本研究中,将市售化妆水中的甲基、乙基、丙基和丁基对羟基苯甲酸酯(MP、EP、PP、BP)涂抹在手术切除后收集的人体皮肤碎片上。对羟基苯甲酸酯类透过人表皮-真皮层后,固定在弗兰兹扩散池上进行测定。使用3%的牛血清白蛋白作为接收液。然后,通过液相色谱法对其进行评估。本研究的目的是确定这些分子透过人表皮-真皮层的渗透情况,以及它们进入人体组织的可能性和/或在皮肤层中的蓄积情况。进行了两组实验。在第一实验组(G1)中,在0小时时将单一剂量的化妆品涂抹在固定于弗兰兹扩散池上的皮肤碎片上(n = 6),随后在12、24和36小时的不同时间抽取接收液。G1组的结果表明,对羟基苯甲酸酯类的渗透受其亲脂性影响:对羟基苯甲酸酯类的亲脂性越强(BP > PP > EP > MP),穿过皮肤层的量越少(BP < PP < EP < MP)。第二实验组(G2)由在不同时间点0、12和24小时在每个弗兰兹扩散池上进行三次等量涂抹(n = 6),随后在12、24和36小时进行三次接收液抽取组成。G2组的结果表明,所研究的对羟基苯甲酸酯类在皮肤层中的渗透显著增加。这种情况导致了这些分子的蓄积,一些作者认为这是皮肤毒性和致癌性的原因。

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