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皮肤光防护的新数据。

New data on skin photoprotection.

机构信息

Secretary General, International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (ISCD) President/Director, R & D, Mavi Sud Srl, Viale dell’Industria 1, 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Aug;22(4):305-12. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00011.x.

Abstract

Absorbed ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for photochemical degradation of the skin. Erythema is the most apparent result of the sunburn reaction, but the most serious results are photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, largely mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS). To prevent these light-induced reactions, effective protection against both UVB and UVA radiations are essential. The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective efficacy against both UVB and UVA rays of three sunscreen preparations (two creams and one lotion), evaluating also their water resistance. For this purpose SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and UVA protection were tested, respectively, on 40 and 20 pre-selected volunteers (male and female, < 22-years-old with skin types I, II and III) by the Colipa test method and the Mark et al. methodology. A wash-off test was also conducted to determine the resistance to water. Results obtained showed that the three formulations studied underline interesting SPF values from about 20-30 with an excellent correlation between visual and colorimetric results obtained (P < 0.05). The controlled decrease in effectiveness of only 20% after 10 min washing proved that the vehicle is also an important factor in determining the protective efficacy. From the obtained data, the studied formulations seem to have an high SPF and UVA protection efficacy together with a good water resistance. According to several other studies, it is possible to confirm therefore that the regular use of these sunscreens may certainly reduce the harmful effect caused by long-term exposure to UVB and UVA radiation.

摘要

被吸收的紫外线(UV)辐射是皮肤光化学降解的原因。红斑是晒伤反应最明显的结果,但最严重的后果是光老化和光致癌,这在很大程度上是由活性氧物种(ROS)介导的。为了防止这些光诱导反应,必须对 UVB 和 UVA 辐射进行有效防护。本研究的目的是评估三种防晒霜(两种乳膏和一种乳液)对 UVB 和 UVA 射线的防护效果,并评估其耐水性。为此,通过 Colipa 测试方法和 Mark 等人的方法,分别对 40 名和 20 名预先选择的志愿者(男性和女性,<22 岁,皮肤类型 I、II 和 III)测试了 SPF(防晒因子)和 UVA 防护。还进行了冲洗测试以确定耐水性。结果表明,所研究的三种配方具有约 20-30 的有趣 SPF 值,并且视觉和比色结果之间具有极好的相关性(P<0.05)。经过 10 分钟的冲洗后,有效性仅降低 20%,这证明载体也是决定防护效果的重要因素。根据其他几项研究,可以确认这些防晒霜具有较高的 SPF 和 UVA 防护效果以及良好的耐水性。因此,经常使用这些防晒霜肯定可以减少长期暴露于 UVB 和 UVA 辐射造成的有害影响。

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