Bernerd Françoise, Vioux Corinne, Lejeune François, Asselineau Daniel
L'Oréal Recherche, C. Zviak Centre, 90 rue du Général Roguet, 92583 Clichy, France.
Eur J Dermatol. 2003 May-Jun;13(3):242-9.
Wavelength specific biological damage has been previously identified in human skin reconstructed in vitro. Sunburn cell and pyrimidine dimers were found after UVB exposure, and alterations of dermal fibroblasts after UVA exposure. These damages permitted us to discriminate UVB and UVA single absorbers. The present study shows that these biological effects can be obtained simultaneously by a combined UVB + UVA exposure using ultraviolet solar simulated light (UV-SSR), which represents a relevant UV source. In addition, the protection afforded by two broad spectrum sunscreen complex formulations was assessed after topical application. These two formulations displayed the same sun protection factor but different UVA protection factors determined by the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) method. Dose response experiments of UVA or UV-SSR showed that the preparation with the highest PF-UVA provided a better protection with regard to dermal damage compared to the other formulation. Using an original UVB source to obtain the UVB portion of SSR spectrum, the preparations provided the same protection. This study strikingly illustrates the fact that the photoprotection afforded by two sunscreen formulations having similar SPF values is not equal with regard to dermal damage related to photoaging.
先前已在体外重建的人体皮肤中发现了特定波长的生物损伤。紫外线B(UVB)照射后发现了晒伤细胞和嘧啶二聚体,紫外线A(UVA)照射后发现了真皮成纤维细胞的改变。这些损伤使我们能够区分UVB和UVA单一吸收剂。本研究表明,使用模拟太阳紫外线(UV-SSR)进行UVB+UVA联合照射可同时获得这些生物学效应,UV-SSR是一种相关的紫外线光源。此外,局部应用后评估了两种广谱防晒复合配方提供的防护效果。这两种配方显示出相同的防晒系数,但通过持续色素沉着变黑(PPD)方法测定的UVA防护系数不同。UVA或UV-SSR的剂量反应实验表明,与另一种配方相比,PF-UVA最高的制剂对皮肤损伤提供了更好的防护。使用原始的UVB光源来获得SSR光谱的UVB部分,这些制剂提供了相同的防护。这项研究显著地说明了这样一个事实,即两种具有相似防晒系数(SPF)值的防晒配方在与光老化相关的皮肤损伤方面提供的光防护并不相同。