Wong Emmy K L, Ng Gabriel Y F
Department of Rehabilitation Sciences, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hung Hom, Hong Kong, China.
J Orthop Sports Phys Ther. 2008 Sep;38(9):572-7. doi: 10.2519/jospt.2008.2779. Epub 2008 Sep 1.
Cross-sectional, 2-group comparison, experimental laboratory study.
Examining and comparing the work profiles of the shoulder flexors and extensors between sport climbers and nonclimbers.
Sport climbing places high demands on the shoulder, which could lead to unique work profiles of the agonist/antagonist muscle groups.
Isokinetic work output of the dominant shoulder flexors and extensors of 31 sport climbers and 27 nonclimbers were measured from 0 degrees to 180 degrees of flexion at a test speed of 60 degrees /s. Profiles for work data (concentric flexion [conFlex], eccentric flexion [eccFlex], concentric extension [conExt], eccentric extension [eccExt]) normalized to body mass, conventional work ratios (conFlex/conExt and eccFlex/eccExt), and functional work ratios (eccFlex/conExt and eccExt/conFlex) were developed for both climbers and nonclimbers.
All work profiles were different between the 2 groups (P<.001). All normalized work data were higher in climbers than nonclimbers, especially for conExt and eccExt. In the climbers, the conventional ratios were smaller than 1 for conFlex/conExt (0.74) and eccFlex/eccExt (0.74), whereas for the nonclimbers the ratios were 1.13 and 1.05, respectively. For the functional work data, the eccFlex/conExt ratio was 0.9 for the climbers compared to 1.46 for the nonclimbers. Conversely, the eccExt/conFlex ratio was much higher in the climbers (1.73) compared to the nonclimbers (1.28).
The differences in work profiles for the shoulder flexors and extensors between the climbers and nonclimbers suggest training-induced adaptations, stronger shoulder flexors, and, especially, stronger extensors, resulting from the sports of climbing.
横断面、两组比较的实验性实验室研究。
检查并比较攀岩者和非攀岩者肩部屈肌和伸肌的工作概况。
攀岩运动对肩部要求很高,这可能导致原动肌/拮抗肌群呈现独特的工作概况。
对31名攀岩者和27名非攀岩者优势肩部屈肌和伸肌在0度至180度屈曲范围内以60度/秒的测试速度进行等速工作输出测量。针对攀岩者和非攀岩者分别制定了按体重归一化的工作数据概况(向心屈曲[conFlex]、离心屈曲[eccFlex]、向心伸展[conExt]、离心伸展[eccExt])、传统工作比率(conFlex/conExt和eccFlex/eccExt)以及功能工作比率(eccFlex/conExt和eccExt/conFlex)。
两组之间所有工作概况均存在差异(P<0.001)。所有归一化工作数据在攀岩者中均高于非攀岩者,尤其是conExt和eccExt。在攀岩者中,conFlex/conExt(0.74)和eccFlex/eccExt(0.74)的传统比率小于1,而非攀岩者的比率分别为1.13和1.05。对于功能工作数据,攀岩者的eccFlex/conExt比率为0.9,而非攀岩者为1.46。相反,攀岩者的eccExt/conFlex比率(1.73)远高于非攀岩者(1.28)。
攀岩者和非攀岩者肩部屈肌和伸肌工作概况的差异表明,攀岩运动导致了训练引起的适应性变化,肩部屈肌更强,尤其是伸肌更强。