Saul Dominik, Steinmetz Gino, Lehmann Wolfgang, Schilling Arndt F
Clinic of Trauma, Orthopaedics and Reconstructive Surgery, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.
Department of Psychosomatic Medicine and Psychotherapy, Georg-August-University of Goettingen, Goettingen, Germany.
J Exerc Sci Fit. 2019 Jul;17(3):91-100. doi: 10.1016/j.jesf.2019.04.002. Epub 2019 May 3.
The number of athletes engaged in climbing sports has risen. Specific physical and psychological skills are required. The objective of this review was to determine factors for high climbing performance. We evaluated physiological, biomechanical and psychological characteristics that simplify the ascent. We also assessed training and recovery strategies.
Medline (Pubmed), Cochrane Library and Google scholar up to September 2018.
A low skinfold thickness, body fat and large forearm volume were anthropometric traits in successful climbers. Well-trained forearm flexors with high aerobic capacities lead to an efficient style. Hand grip strength and endurance, postural stability and optimized kinematic motions were favourable. Elite climbers had long finger and bent-arm hang times. Psychologically, an "iceberg profile" was typical. Constant training with fingerboard and dynamic eccentric-concentric training helped to push the "red-point grade".
Hand, forearm strength and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. An efficient climbing style with perpetual focus and accuracy, high speed and low exhaustion due to adaption to repeated isometric exercise is helpful in the ascent, while low body fat and a large bone-to-tip pulp make it easier. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors, which should be followed by active recovery.
从事攀岩运动的运动员数量有所增加。攀岩需要特定的身体和心理技能。本综述的目的是确定攀岩高水平表现的因素。我们评估了有助于简化攀登过程的生理、生物力学和心理特征。我们还评估了训练和恢复策略。
检索截至2018年9月的Medline（PubMed）、Cochrane图书馆和谷歌学术。
成功的攀岩者的人体测量特征包括皮褶厚度低、体脂低和前臂围度大。训练有素且有氧能力高的前臂屈肌有助于形成高效的攀岩风格。握力和耐力、姿势稳定性以及优化的运动动作都很有利。精英攀岩者的手指悬挂和屈臂悬挂时间较长。在心理方面，典型的是“冰山剖面图”。使用指力板进行持续训练以及动态离心-向心训练有助于提高“红点难度等级”。
手部、前臂力量和耐力是精英攀岩者的重要因素。一种高效的攀岩风格，持续专注且精准，速度快且因适应重复等长运动而疲劳度低，有助于攀登，而低体脂和较大的指骨至指尖肉垫则使攀登更容易。持续训练至关重要，例如手指屈肌的离心-向心训练，训练后应进行积极恢复。
