Faggian Sara, Borasio Nicola, Vecchiato Marco, Gatterer Hannes, Burtscher Martin, Battista Francesca, Brunner Hannes, Quinto Giulia, Duregon Federica, Ermolao Andrea, Neunhaeuserer Daniel
Sports and Exercise Medicine Division, Department of Medicine, University of Padova, Padova 35128, Italy.
Sports and Exercise Medicine Division, Department of Medicine, University of Padova, Padova 35128, Italy; Clinical Network of Sports and Exercise Medicine of the Veneto Region, Padova 35131, Italy.
J Sport Health Sci. 2024 Aug 29;14:100974. doi: 10.1016/j.jshs.2024.100974.
Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review was aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels.
PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20,2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible.
74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics.
The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.
竞技攀岩在普通人群和运动员中都变得极其受欢迎。关于基于证据的特定运动表现评估尚无共识；因此，本系统综述旨在通过比较不同水平的攀岩者来分析竞技攀岩表现的决定因素和评估方法。
检索了截至2022年12月20日的PubMed、Scopus和Web of Science数据库。纳入那些提供了连续表现水平的攀岩者群体中与不同功能结果相关的自我报告攀岩能力的研究。
最终纳入74项研究。已经提出了各种方法来评估竞技攀岩表现的决定因素。与一般功能测试相比，特定于攀岩的评估能够区分不同水平的攀岩者。特定于攀岩的心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和功率测试的效度较高；同样，除了心肺耐力外，可靠性良好。特定于攀岩的柔韧性评估具有较高的可靠性，但效度中等，而平衡能力的效度较低。关于人体测量特征，发现了相当多相互矛盾的证据。
本分析确定心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和功率是竞技攀岩表现的决定因素。相比之下，平衡、柔韧性和人体测量特征似乎不太重要。本综述还提出了一个基于证据的功能性竞技攀岩测试组合，用于评估表现决定因素，其中包括已被确定为有效、可靠和可行的测试。虽然运动员和教练应依赖基于证据的标准化评估方法，但研究人员可以设计特定的大规模试验，作为提供额外、同质和可比数据的资源，以改善这一热门运动项目中的科学证据和专业性。
