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分子美食学,一种对烹饪的科学审视。

Molecular gastronomy, a scientific look at cooking.

作者信息

This Hervé

机构信息

INRA Team of Molecular Gastronomy, UMR 214 INRA/AgroParisTech, 16 rue Claude Bernard, 75005 Paris, France.

出版信息

Acc Chem Res. 2009 May 19;42(5):575-83. doi: 10.1021/ar8002078.

DOI:10.1021/ar8002078
PMID:19449900
Abstract

Food preparation is such a routine activity that we often do not question the process. For example, why do we cook as we do? Why do we eat certain foods and avoid other perfectly edible ingredients? To help answer these questions, it is extremely important to study the chemical changes that food undergoes during preparation; even simply cutting a vegetable can lead to enzymatic reactions. For many years, these molecular transformations were neglected by the food science field. In 1988, the scientific discipline called "molecular gastronomy" was created, and the field is now developing in many countries. Its many applications fall into two categories. First, there are technology applications for restaurants, for homes, or even for the food industry. In particular, molecular gastronomy has led to "molecular cooking", a way of food preparation that uses "new" tools, ingredients, and methods. According to a British culinary magazine, the three "top chefs" of the world employ elements of molecular cooking. Second, there are educational applications of molecular gastronomy: new insights into the culinary processes have led to new culinary curricula for chefs in many countries such as France, Canada, Italy, and Finland, as well as educational programs in schools. In this Account, we focus on science, explain why molecular gastronomy had to be created, and consider its tools, concepts, and results. Within the field, conceptual tools have been developed in order to make the necessary studies. The emphasis is on two important parts of recipes: culinary definitions (describing the objective of recipes) and culinary "precisions" (information that includes old wives' tales, methods, tips, and proverbs, for example). As for any science, the main objective of molecular gastronomy is, of course, the discovery of new phenomena and new mechanisms. This explains why culinary precisions are so important: cooks of the past could see, but not interpret, phenomena that awaited scientific studies. For French cuisine alone, more than 25,000 culinary precisions have been collected since 1980. The study of the organization of dishes was improved by the introduction of a formalism called "complex disperse systems/nonperiodical organization of space" (CDS/NPOS). CDS describes the colloidal materials from which the parts of a dish are made; NPOS provides an overall description of a dish. This formalism has proven useful for the study of both scientific (examining phenomena to arrive at a mechanism) and technological (using the results of science to improve technique) applications. For example, it can be used to describe the physical structure of dishes (science) but also to examine the characteristics of classical French sauces (technology). Many questions still remain in the field of molecular gastronomy. For example, one "Holy Grail" of the field is the prediction of physical, biological, chemical, and organoleptic properties of systems from their CDS/NPOS formula. Another issue to be worked out is the relationship between compound migration in food and chemical modifications of those migrating compounds. These questions will likely keep scientists busy in the near future.

摘要

食物制备是一项日常活动,我们常常不会对这个过程提出疑问。例如,我们为什么以这样的方式烹饪?我们为什么吃某些食物而避开其他完全可食用的食材?为了帮助回答这些问题,研究食物在制备过程中所经历的化学变化极其重要;即使只是切一下蔬菜也会引发酶促反应。多年来,这些分子转变一直被食品科学领域所忽视。1988年,一门名为“分子美食学”的科学学科诞生了,如今该领域正在许多国家不断发展。它的诸多应用可分为两类。第一类是针对餐馆、家庭甚至食品行业的技术应用。特别是,分子美食学催生了“分子烹饪”,这是一种使用“新”工具、食材和方法的食物制备方式。据一本英国烹饪杂志报道,世界上三位“顶级厨师”都采用了分子烹饪的元素。第二类是分子美食学的教育应用:对烹饪过程的新见解催生了许多国家(如法国、加拿大、意大利和芬兰)针对厨师的新烹饪课程,以及学校的教育项目。在本综述中,我们聚焦于科学,解释为什么必须创建分子美食学,并探讨其工具、概念和成果。在该领域内,已经开发出概念工具以便进行必要的研究。重点在于食谱的两个重要部分:烹饪定义(描述食谱的目标)和烹饪“精确信息”(例如包括民间传说、方法、小贴士和谚语等信息)。和任何科学一样,分子美食学的主要目标当然是发现新现象和新机制。这就解释了为什么烹饪精确信息如此重要:过去的厨师能看到现象,但无法解读这些现象,而这些现象有待科学研究。仅就法国美食而言,自1980年以来已经收集了超过25000条烹饪精确信息。通过引入一种名为“复杂分散系统/空间的非周期性组织”(CDS/NPOS)的形式体系,菜肴结构的研究得到了改进。CDS描述了构成菜肴各部分的胶体材料;NPOS提供了对一道菜肴的总体描述。这种形式体系已被证明在科学(研究现象以得出机制)和技术(利用科学成果改进技术)应用方面都很有用。例如,它可用于描述菜肴的物理结构(科学),也可用于研究经典法国酱汁的特性(技术)。分子美食学领域仍存在许多问题。例如,该领域的一个“圣杯”是根据系统的CDS/NPOS公式预测其物理、生物、化学和感官特性。另一个有待解决的问题是食物中化合物迁移与这些迁移化合物的化学修饰之间的关系。在不久的将来,这些问题可能会让科学家们忙碌不已。

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