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防晒霜的持久性:对一些季铵盐类防晒霜的评价。

Substantivity of sunscreens: an appraisal of some quaternary ammonium sunscreens.

机构信息

Laboratorio di Tecnologie Farmaceutiche-Biofarmacia, Università di Pisa, Via Bonanno 6, 56100 PISA, Italy.

出版信息

Int J Cosmet Sci. 1986 Feb;8(1):9-25. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00426.x.

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00426.x
PMID:19460033
Abstract

Synopsis Two series of quaternary ammonium UV-B sunscreens, derived from salicylic acid (S) and from p-methoxycinnamic acid (C), and containing N-alkyl chains of different length (C(2) to C(16)) were prepared and submitted to substantivity tests on animal (wool) keratin, and to microbiological tests. A direct correlation between substantivity and antimicrobial/antifungal activity was observed in all cases, the compounds bearing C(12) alkyl chains displaying peak values. The C-derivatives, when compared with the S-derivatives, showed relatively higher substantivity and sunscreen index (SI) values, coupled with lower antibacterial activity. The substantivity-microbiological activity correlations and the particular behaviour of the C(12) derivatives are briefly discussed in the light of the existing literature data. On the basis of the experimental results, possible guidelines for the development of substantive and non-antibacterial (and possibly, non-irritant) quaternary ammonium sunscreens are indicated.

摘要

概要 从水杨酸(S)和对甲氧基肉桂酸(C)合成了两个系列的季铵型 UV-B 防晒剂,它们含有不同长度的 N-烷基链(C(2)至 C(16)),并进行了在动物(羊毛)角蛋白上的固着力测试和微生物测试。在所有情况下,都观察到固着力和抗菌/抗真菌活性之间存在直接相关性,带有 C(12)烷基链的化合物显示出峰值。与 S 衍生物相比,C 衍生物具有相对更高的固着力和防晒指数(SI)值,同时具有较低的抗菌活性。根据现有文献数据,简要讨论了固着力-微生物活性相关性以及 C(12)衍生物的特殊行为。基于实验结果,为开发具有固着力且非抗菌(可能也非刺激性)的季铵型防晒霜提供了可能的指导方针。

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