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常见护肤品中的活性成分。

Active agents in common skin care products.

机构信息

High Point, N.C. From Dermatology Consulting Services.

出版信息

Plast Reconstr Surg. 2010 Feb;125(2):719-724. doi: 10.1097/PRS.0b013e3181c83192.

DOI:10.1097/PRS.0b013e3181c83192
PMID:20124857
Abstract

BACKGROUND

Skin care products are numerous and perplexing, yet the majority fall into the moisturizer category. Moisturizers are substances designed to improve and maintain the skin barrier. They serve as a vehicle for the delivery of active ingredients that minimize facial lines of dehydration, deliver photoprotection, and provide antioxidant properties.

METHODS

Moisturizers are based on occlusive substances, such as petrolatum and dimethicone, and humectant substances, such as glycerin, with a variety of sunscreens and botanicals for added functionality and marketing impact. This article reviews these common active agents.

RESULTS

The plethora of over-the-counter skin care products available for patient purchase is overwhelming, yet there is certain commonality among 80 percent of the formulations. The majority of the products are moisturizers with added ingredients to support marketing claims. Whether the product is a facial foundation, an antiaging night cream, a sunscreen, a topical antioxidant, or a skin-lightening serum, the formulation is basically a moisturizer.

CONCLUSION

Sunscreen is the most biologically active antiaging ingredient in skin care products, but the antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects of botanicals possess tremendous marketing appeal.

摘要

背景

护肤品种类繁多,令人困惑,但大多数属于保湿剂类别。保湿剂是旨在改善和维持皮肤屏障的物质。它们是传递活性成分的载体,这些成分可以减少皮肤脱水引起的皱纹,提供光保护,并提供抗氧化特性。

方法

保湿剂基于封闭物质,如凡士林和二甲硅油,以及吸湿物质,如甘油,还有各种防晒霜和植物提取物,以增加功能和营销影响力。本文综述了这些常见的活性成分。

结果

可供患者购买的大量非处方皮肤护理产品令人不知所措,但 80%的配方中存在一定的共性。大多数产品是保湿剂,添加了支持营销宣传的成分。无论产品是面部粉底、抗衰老晚霜、防晒霜、局部抗氧化剂还是皮肤美白血清,配方基本上都是保湿剂。

结论

防晒霜是护肤品中最具生物活性的抗衰老成分,但植物提取物的抗炎和抗氧化作用具有巨大的营销吸引力。

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Plast Reconstr Surg. 2010 Feb;125(2):719-724. doi: 10.1097/PRS.0b013e3181c83192.
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