Cheng Peng, Chen Meilan, Zhu Yan
College of Chemistry and Biology Engineering, Guilin University of Technology, Guilin 541004, China.
Se Pu. 2010 Jan;28(1):89-92. doi: 10.3724/sp.j.1123.2010.00089.
A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of two optical isomers of arbutin (alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin) and niacinamide in cosmetics was developed. The samples were extracted by the mixture of salt water and chloroform (2:1, v/v). The separation was performed on an ODS-BP column (200 mm x 4.6 mm, 5 microm, Elite) with methanol-water (10:90, v/v) as the mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.5 mL/min and 25 degrees C. The detection wavelength was set at 220 nm and the sample injection volume was 20 microL. There were good linear relationships between the mass concentration and the peak areas of alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin and niacinamide in the ranges of 0.07-50, 0.06-50 and 0.05-50 mg/L, respectively. The relative standard deviations (RSDs, n = 7) of alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin and niacinamide were 1.65%, 1.73% and 1.33%, respectively. The proposed method has been applied for the determination of alpha-arbutin, beta-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics with recoveries of 91.7%-109.6%. This method is rapid, simple and suitable for the detection of whitening ingredients in cosmetic.
建立了一种用于测定化妆品中熊果苷（α - 熊果苷和β - 熊果苷）两种光学异构体及烟酰胺的高效液相色谱（HPLC）方法。样品用盐水和氯仿的混合液（2:1，v/v）萃取。分离在ODS - BP柱（200 mm×4.6 mm，5 µm，Elite）上进行，以甲醇 - 水（10:90，v/v）为流动相，流速为0.5 mL/min，柱温为25℃。检测波长设定为220 nm，进样量为20 µL。α - 熊果苷、β - 熊果苷和烟酰胺的质量浓度在0.07 - 50、0.06 - 50和0.05 - 50 mg/L范围内与峰面积均有良好的线性关系。α - 熊果苷、β - 熊果苷和烟酰胺的相对标准偏差（RSD，n = 7）分别为1.65%、1.73%和1.33%。该方法已应用于化妆品中α - 熊果苷、β - 熊果苷和烟酰胺的测定，回收率为91.7% - 109.6%。该方法快速、简便，适用于化妆品中美白成分的检测。
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