Ramírez R, Martí M, Barba C, Méndez S, Parra J L, Coderch L
Department of Chemical and Surfactant Technology, IQAC (CSIC), Barcelona, Spain.
J Cosmet Sci. 2010 May-Jun;61(3):235-45.
Ceramides from intercellular lipids of skin stratum corneum are known to play an essential role in maintaining and structuring the lipid barrier of the skin. Internal wool lipids (IWL), which are also rich in ceramides, have a composition similar to that of the stratum corneum lipids. IWL extracted with chloroform/methanol azeotrope at the laboratory scale have been shown to be capable of forming liposomes with a stable bilayer structure. Furthermore, topical application of these IWL liposomes on intact and compromised skin has been demonstrated to improve barrier skin properties.In this study we evaluated the effect on human skin repair of different IWL extract compositions obtained by two extraction methodologies. The formation and characteristics of the liposomes prepared were greatly influenced by the IWL composition, primarily the sterol sulfate content. The IWL liposomes improved skin barrier integrity and increased skin hydration when applied onto intact skin. These improvements were slightly enhanced in the case of IWL liposomes that were richer in polar lipids.
已知来自皮肤角质层细胞间脂质的神经酰胺在维持和构建皮肤脂质屏障中起着至关重要的作用。同样富含神经酰胺的羊毛内脂（IWL），其组成与角质层脂质相似。在实验室规模下用氯仿/甲醇共沸物提取的IWL已被证明能够形成具有稳定双层结构的脂质体。此外，已证明将这些IWL脂质体局部应用于完整和受损皮肤可改善皮肤屏障特性。在本研究中，我们评估了通过两种提取方法获得的不同IWL提取物组成对人体皮肤修复的影响。所制备脂质体的形成和特性受到IWL组成的极大影响，主要是硫酸甾醇含量。将IWL脂质体应用于完整皮肤时，可改善皮肤屏障完整性并增加皮肤水分含量。在极性脂质含量较高的IWL脂质体中，这些改善略有增强。
