Huang Huey-Chun, Chang Tsong-Min
Department of Medical Laboratory Science and Biotechnology, China Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan.
Int J Dermatol. 2008 Aug;47(8):812-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-4632.2008.03687.x.
BACKGROUND: Stratum corneum intercellular lipids, such as ceramides, play an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. Aim To evaluate the potential water retention capacity of control emulsion and three oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions containing ceramide 1, ceramide 3, or both. METHODS: Fifteen healthy Asian women (age, 20-30 years) with healthy skin, pretreated with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), applied the tested emulsions twice daily over a period of 28 days. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values were measured on the indicated days with a Corneometer(R)825 and a TEWAMETER TM210, respectively. RESULTS: The maximum increase in skin humidity was reached after 4 weeks, with values of 21.9 +/- 1.8% and 8.9 +/- 0.9% for emulsion C and control emulsion, respectively. The maximum decrease in TEWL was also reached after 4 weeks, with values of 36.7 +/- 4.7% and 5.1 +/- 0.8% for the same emulsions. CONCLUSIONS: It can be concluded that all the tested ceramide-containing emulsions improved skin barrier function when compared with untreated skin. There was some indication that ceramides 1 and 3 contained in emulsion C might exert a beneficial synergistic effect on skin biochemical properties, such as skin hydration and TEWL, and play a key role in the protection mechanism against SLS irritation.
背景:角质层细胞间脂质,如神经酰胺,在调节皮肤水屏障稳态和持水能力方面发挥着重要作用。目的:评估对照乳液和三种含神经酰胺1、神经酰胺3或两者的水包油(o/w)乳液的潜在保水能力。 方法:15名年龄在20 - 30岁、皮肤健康的亚洲女性,先用月桂醇硫酸酯钠(SLS)预处理,然后在28天内每天涂抹两次受试乳液。分别在指定日期用Corneometer®825和TEWAMETER TM210测量皮肤水合作用和经表皮水分流失(TEWL)值。 结果:4周后皮肤湿度达到最大增幅,乳液C和对照乳液的值分别为21.9±1.8%和8.9±0.9%。同样在4周后TEWL达到最大降幅,相同乳液的值分别为36.7±4.7%和5.1±0.8%。 结论:可以得出结论,与未处理的皮肤相比,所有受试的含神经酰胺乳液均改善了皮肤屏障功能。有迹象表明,乳液C中含有的神经酰胺1和3可能对皮肤生化特性,如皮肤水合作用和TEWL产生有益的协同作用,并在抵御SLS刺激的保护机制中起关键作用。
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