Schweizer Andreas, Hudek Robert
Universitätsklinik Balgrist, Orthopädie, Zürich, Switzerland.
J Appl Biomech. 2011 May;27(2):116-21. doi: 10.1123/jab.27.2.116.
The aim was to investigate differences of the kinetics of the crimp and the slope grip used in rock climbing. Nine cadaver fingers were prepared and fixated with the proximal phalanx in a frame. The superficial (FDS) and deep (FDP) flexor tendons were loaded selectively and together with 40 N in the crimp grip (PIP joint flexed 90°/DIP joint hyperextended) and the slope grip position (<25° flexed/50° flexed respectively). Five different grip sizes were tested and the flexion force which was generated to the grip was measured. In the crimp grip the FDP generated more flexion force in small sized holds whereas the FDS generated more force in the larger holds. During the slope grip the FDP was more effective than the FDS. While both tendons were loaded, the flexion force was always greater during crimp grip compared with the slope grip. The FDP seems to be most important for very small holds using the crimp grip but also during slope grip holds whereas the FDS is more important for larger flat holds.
目的是研究攀岩中使用的压握和斜握的动力学差异。准备了9根尸体手指，并将近端指骨固定在一个框架中。在压握（近端指间关节屈曲90°/远端指间关节过伸）和斜握姿势（分别屈曲<25°/屈曲50°）下，分别对浅屈肌腱（FDS）和深屈肌腱（FDP）进行选择性加载，并施加40 N的力。测试了五种不同的握把尺寸，并测量了握把产生的屈曲力。在压握中，FDP在小尺寸握把上产生的屈曲力更大，而FDS在大尺寸握把上产生的力更大。在斜握过程中，FDP比FDS更有效。当两根肌腱都加载时，压握时的屈曲力总是比斜握时更大。FDP似乎对于使用压握的非常小的握把以及斜握握把都最为重要，而FDS对于较大的平握把更为重要。
