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与佩兴斯·格雷一起在萨伦托地区,在富足与贫困之间觅食。

Between plenty and poverty foraging in the Salento with Patience Gray.

作者信息

Federman Adam

出版信息

Gastronomica (Berkeley Calif). 2011;11(1):61-6. doi: 10.1525/gfc.2011.11.1.61.

DOI:10.1525/gfc.2011.11.1.61
PMID:21591312
Abstract

Patience Gray was one of the first food writers to celebrate the culinary and cultural significance of edible weeds and plants. In 1970 she and her husband, the Belgian sculptor Norman Mommens, settled in the far south of Italy. It was the endpoint of their Mediterranean odyssey, which had taken them to the Greek island of Naxos, Carrara, in northwestern Tuscany, Catalonia, the Veneto, and finally Puglia. Gray’s Honey from a Weed, the product of those travels, remains one of the best texts on wild foods and on edible weeds in particular. Drawing on Gray’s unpublished letters and manuscripts this essay explores the life of one of the twentieth century’s most unusual and often overlooked food writers. The contemporary uses and significance of edible weeds and plants are also discussed through foraging trips and interviews with Gray’s friends and neighbors. Though Gray warned that traditional ways of life were dying out, it is clear that foraging is still an important part of the Salentine diet.

摘要

佩兴丝·格雷是最早颂扬可食用野草和植物的烹饪及文化意义的美食作家之一。1970年,她和丈夫——比利时雕塑家诺曼·莫门斯定居在意大利最南端。这是他们地中海之旅的终点,他们的旅程曾带他们去过希腊的纳克索斯岛、托斯卡纳西北部的卡拉拉、加泰罗尼亚、威尼托,最后来到普利亚。格雷的《野草蜜》就是这些旅行的成果,至今仍是关于野生食物尤其是可食用野草的最佳著作之一。本文借助格雷未发表的信件和手稿,探寻这位20世纪最与众不同且常被忽视的美食作家之一的一生。还通过觅食之旅以及对格雷的朋友和邻居的访谈,探讨了可食用野草和植物在当代的用途及意义。尽管格雷曾警告传统生活方式正在消亡,但很明显,觅食仍是萨伦蒂诺饮食的重要组成部分。

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