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测定经化妆品预处理后的皮肤所涂防晒霜的防护功效和分布均匀度。

Determination of the protection efficacy and homogeneity of the distribution of sunscreens applied onto skin pre-treated with cosmetic products.

机构信息

Department of Dermatology, Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology, Charité-Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Berlin, Germany.

出版信息

Skin Res Technol. 2012 May;18(2):245-50. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2011.00563.x. Epub 2011 Sep 6.

Abstract

BACKGROUND

The efficacy of sunscreens depends decisively on the homogeneity of its distribution on the skin surface, which is sensitively reflected by two spectroscopic data - the factor of inhomogeneity and the sum transmission - measured after tape stripping. The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of a skin pre-treatment with body lotion on the layout of the formulations.

METHODS

Six healthy volunteers were pre-treated using the body lotion, Nivea Body (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany). The sunscreen was an oil/water (o/w) emulsion, Roc SPF 8 (RoC SA, Paris, France). The tape stripped tesa films were measured with a modified UV/VIS spectrometer Lambda 5 (PerkinElmer, Frankfurt/Main, Germany), the data of which were used to calculate both measurands.

RESULTS

The obtained results made clear that the original spectroscopic data must be corrected taking into account the changed amounts of horny layer particles removed with the individual tape strips after pre-treatment. As a consequence of the correction, the factors of inhomogeneity as well as the sum transmissions confirm a more homogeneous distribution of the applied sunscreen.

CONCLUSION

The findings confirm that the applied method is well suited to obtain information on the distribution of topically applied substances, and furthermore that the influence of the pre-treatment of the skin with the body lotion enhances the homogeneity of distribution and thus the sunscreen efficacy.

摘要

背景

防晒霜的功效取决于其在皮肤表面的分布均匀程度,这可以通过两种光谱数据——不均匀因子和总和透过率来敏感地反映,这些数据是在胶带剥离后测量的。本研究的目的是研究皮肤预处理用身体乳液对制剂布局的影响。

方法

六位健康志愿者使用妮维雅身体乳液(拜尔斯道夫股份公司,汉堡,德国)进行预处理。防晒霜是一种油/水(o/w)乳液,Roc SPF 8(Roc SA,巴黎,法国)。用改良的 UV/VIS 分光光度计 Lambda 5(珀金埃尔默,法兰克福/美因河畔,德国)测量胶带剥离的 tesa 薄膜,数据用于计算两个测定值。

结果

获得的结果清楚地表明,必须考虑到预处理后每个胶带去除的角质层颗粒的量的变化,对原始光谱数据进行校正。校正后,不均匀因子和总和透过率都证实了所应用的防晒霜分布更加均匀。

结论

这些发现证实,所应用的方法非常适合获取局部应用物质分布的信息,此外,用身体乳液预处理皮肤会增强分布的均匀性,从而提高防晒霜的功效。

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