Division of Dermatology, The University of Ottawa, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2012 Mar;11(1):9-16. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00603.x.
To investigate changes in sebum cytokines in response to hair cosmetics. Design and setting A prospective study at a University hospital.
We used a novel method for scalp surface sebum collection (Sebutape(®)) on three visits, sequentially a week apart, to investigate changes in six cytokines in 36 healthy women before and after shampoo and compared various chemical treatments (ammonium thioglycolate, "lye" sodium hydroxide and "no-lye" guanidine hydroxide relaxers) performed by a professional hairdresser.
Significant levels detected were IL-1 alpha (IL-1α) and IL-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra), which were higher in untreated scalp vs. forehead: P < 0.001. Baseline levels of scalp sebum IL-1α were 18 times higher than IL-1ra. The levels of IL-1α decreased uniformly after shampoo (visit 1) and various chemical treatments (both crown and vertex all P < 0.001 - visit 2) but increased on follow-up at visit 3. Decreases in IL-1ra mimicked IL-1α at the vertex [after shampoo (P = 0.018) and visit 3 (P = 0.014)], but not on the crown, a finding which may suggest site-specific scalp predisposition to inflammation. The ratio of IL-1ra/IL-1α increased in all groups after all chemical treatments and on follow-up (all P < 0.001) but was surprisingly not significantly different from natural hair that underwent shampoo.
A wider cytokine panel may reveal response differences in treatment groups.
Baseline inflammatory scalp cytokines are higher than expected and reduce with shampooing. Scrutiny of the influence of hair moisturizer formulations and shampoo intervals and studies investigating pro-fibrotic cytokines are required. This may elucidate the predilection of afro-textured hair to scarring alopecia.
研究化妆品对皮脂细胞因子的影响。设计和设置：这是在一所大学附属医院进行的前瞻性研究。
我们使用一种新的头皮表面皮脂收集方法（Sebutape®），在三个连续的一周间隔的就诊中，调查 36 名健康女性在使用洗发水前后 6 种细胞因子的变化，并比较了由专业发型师进行的各种化学处理（氨硫醇、“碱”氢氧化钠和“无碱”胍基氢氧化物松弛剂）。
未处理的头皮与前额相比，检测到的显著水平的细胞因子有白细胞介素 1 阿尔法（IL-1α）和白细胞介素 1 受体拮抗剂（IL-1ra）：P<0.001。头皮皮脂 IL-1α 的基线水平是 IL-1ra 的 18 倍。洗发水（就诊 1）和各种化学处理（头顶和顶点均 P<0.001-就诊 2）后，IL-1α 水平均匀下降，但在就诊 3 时又升高。IL-1ra 的下降与 IL-1α 在顶点上相似[洗发水后（P=0.018）和就诊 3（P=0.014）]，但在头顶上却不同，这一发现可能表明头皮对炎症有特定部位的易感性。所有化学处理后和随访时（均 P<0.001），IL-1ra/IL-1α 比值在所有组中增加，但与未经洗发水处理的自然头发相比，差异无统计学意义。
更广泛的细胞因子谱可能会揭示治疗组之间的反应差异。
基线炎症性头皮细胞因子高于预期，用洗发水可减少。需要仔细研究头发保湿剂配方和洗发水间隔的影响，以及研究促纤维化细胞因子的影响。这可能阐明了 Afro-textured 头发易患瘢痕性脱发的倾向。
