Ghanem Laura, Chagoury Stephani, Issa Andrea, Khoury Kaline Maya, Karam Kelly Katherine, Makhlouf Milissa
Faculty of Medical Sciences, Lebanese University, Beirut, Lebanon.
Faculty of Medicine, University of Balamand, Tripoli, Lebanon.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jan;24(1):e16654. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16654. Epub 2024 Oct 29.
The side effects of two related chemicals, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) and thioglycolic acid (TGA) have been widely highlighted in the world of cosmetics. These thioglycolate compounds are considered essential ingredients in a new technique known as brow lamination. This technique is widely used nowadays, with the aim of changing the eyebrow shape.
To our knowledge, this is the first study to address the possible side effects of brow lamination.
The hydrophilic characteristic of ATG and TGA reflects their transdermal absorption through the intracellular and transappendageal pathways. These compounds can affect the skin through allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), characterized by skin irritation, dryness, and erythema. Moreover, these thioglycolates can alter several mechanical and chemical reactions in the eyebrows' hair, therefore affecting their shape, structure, and pigmentation. In addition, these chemicals contained in brow lamination can exert systemic manifestations, at the level of the reproductive, ocular, respiratory, and endocrine systems.
More studies should be elaborated to shed light on the possible side effects of this trend. Additionally, further regulations should be taken into consideration to ensure the concentration and the measures applied are convenient to minimize these side effects.
两种相关化学物质，巯基乙酸铵（ATG）和巯基乙酸（TGA）的副作用在化妆品领域已被广泛关注。这些巯基乙酸化合物被认为是一种名为眉毛分层技术中的关键成分。如今这项技术被广泛应用，目的是改变眉形。
据我们所知，这是第一项针对眉毛分层可能产生的副作用的研究。
ATG和TGA的亲水性特征反映出它们可通过细胞内和经附属器途径进行透皮吸收。这些化合物可通过过敏性接触性皮炎（ACD）影响皮肤，其特征为皮肤刺激、干燥和红斑。此外，这些巯基乙酸盐可改变眉毛毛发中的多种机械和化学反应，从而影响其形状、结构和色素沉着。此外，眉毛分层中含有的这些化学物质可在生殖、眼部、呼吸和内分泌系统层面产生全身表现。
应开展更多研究以阐明这一趋势可能产生的副作用。此外，应考虑进一步制定相关规定，以确保所使用的浓度和措施便于将这些副作用降至最低。
